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Hi,
About 1/350th sec is about the best compromise between overall sharpness and getting some prop (Or Rotor) blur. Or you could add it in Photoshop as it`s a bit far to go and re-take the shot (Geordieland to Canada)
First time i have seen a twin otter with floats, Looks good!
Best Regards - Pete.
About 1/350th sec is about the best compromise between overall sharpness and getting some prop (Or Rotor) blur. Or you could add it in Photoshop as it`s a bit far to go and re-take the shot (Geordieland to Canada)
First time i have seen a twin otter with floats, Looks good!
Best Regards - Pete.
Comment by PeteL posted on Prop Blurr at 21/10/2009 - 16:53
If it had Pentax on the front then i`d be first in the queue!!!
Regards - Pete
Regards - Pete
Comment by PeteL posted on Canon 1D MK IV Announced - Who needs FF? at 20/10/2009 - 18:32
My Father taught me to paint in oil and watercolour at a very early age,How to paint a sky or create an illusion of a three dimensional object on a flat piece of canvas but it took me years to create a painting that i would consider to be Art. The same goes for my Photography, It took more than learning how to press a button before i could call myself a Photographer. Thankfully for all of the modern Camera`s automation it still requires skill and imagination to create something of worth.
Regards - Pete.
Regards - Pete.
Comment by PeteL posted on Artist or Photographer? at 19/10/2009 - 21:39
I believe that some Photography is Art in the same way as i believe that not every drawing, painting or sculpture is Art! To me it all depends on the level of skill used to create the piece and not the medium used to create it!
I have clicked the Photographer icon in the poll but i would actually consider myself as both!
When i pick up a Camera i consider myself a Photographer but if i am using Paint or Clay then i am an Artist!
Regards - Pete
I have clicked the Photographer icon in the poll but i would actually consider myself as both!
When i pick up a Camera i consider myself a Photographer but if i am using Paint or Clay then i am an Artist!
Regards - Pete
Comment by PeteL posted on Artist or Photographer? at 19/10/2009 - 17:00
Hi,
I agree with above, Eneloop are a very popular Choice, I have used Duracell Nickel Metal Hydryde (NiMh) Batteries in my Flashguns (2650 ma)for 3-4 years but when they need replacing i shall go for Recyko ones as these are recommended by Which? and are cheaper. Just make sure that you use a NiMh Charger with any of these batteries.
Regards - Pete
I agree with above, Eneloop are a very popular Choice, I have used Duracell Nickel Metal Hydryde (NiMh) Batteries in my Flashguns (2650 ma)for 3-4 years but when they need replacing i shall go for Recyko ones as these are recommended by Which? and are cheaper. Just make sure that you use a NiMh Charger with any of these batteries.
Regards - Pete
Comment by PeteL posted on Pentax K100 Battey Problem at 19/10/2009 - 16:43
hkwiles wrote:
pete.
I assume you select qwhichever setting..Bright, natural, Portrait etc, alter settings as required then press OK. Then shoot? Are these actually available in green mode? can't remeber if I was on Av or not .
I quite like the filter options post shoot, Watercolour is good with the landscapes.
Howard
Hi Howard,pete.
I assume you select qwhichever setting..Bright, natural, Portrait etc, alter settings as required then press OK. Then shoot? Are these actually available in green mode? can't remeber if I was on Av or not .
I quite like the filter options post shoot, Watercolour is good with the landscapes.
Howard
Many apologies, i was not aware that you were using GREEN Mode! as you say -you cannot adjust the Colour Custom Image in green mode or video,
It was just that the images looked so subtle that it lead me to think that you had used "Natural" So Sorry for causing confusion!
I`ll let you get on and enjoy using your new Camera in peace!!!
Best Regards - Pete
Comment by PeteL posted on First Pictures With K7 at 19/10/2009 - 16:30
Hi,
Like i said it`s not just a Pentax thing, the Dark frame exposure is applicable to all makes, there was a series very good article on noise reduction in Amateur Photographer last month.
I only have a very ancient Weston Meter V with an invercone myself which is pretty good but it uses a selenium cell so a more modern digital one would probably be better still. The way mine works is that the needle points to a number, you rotate the dial to correspond with that number and then choose your shutter speed/aperture from any of the ones that line up with each other. I have never used a modern one but it might be worth investigating if you do a lot of long exposure work. There are several in the Amateur Photographer Mag second hand dealers pages, I`m sure that they could advise you better than i could.
Generally these days i do pretty much as you do but if i am taking shots longer than 30 seconds i open the camera aperture so that i can get a reading then close it down to my working aperture and set my exposure multiplying it by the number of clicks. so for example if i get a reading of 30 sec at F4 then i close the aperture to F16 and multiply the exposure by 4X giving 2 minutes, (though generally i make it a little longer than that so say maybe 2 mins 30 sec)
Incidentally the thread actually made me check that my slow shutter speed noise reduction was switched on... It Was!!!
Best Regards - Pete.
Like i said it`s not just a Pentax thing, the Dark frame exposure is applicable to all makes, there was a series very good article on noise reduction in Amateur Photographer last month.
I only have a very ancient Weston Meter V with an invercone myself which is pretty good but it uses a selenium cell so a more modern digital one would probably be better still. The way mine works is that the needle points to a number, you rotate the dial to correspond with that number and then choose your shutter speed/aperture from any of the ones that line up with each other. I have never used a modern one but it might be worth investigating if you do a lot of long exposure work. There are several in the Amateur Photographer Mag second hand dealers pages, I`m sure that they could advise you better than i could.
Generally these days i do pretty much as you do but if i am taking shots longer than 30 seconds i open the camera aperture so that i can get a reading then close it down to my working aperture and set my exposure multiplying it by the number of clicks. so for example if i get a reading of 30 sec at F4 then i close the aperture to F16 and multiply the exposure by 4X giving 2 minutes, (though generally i make it a little longer than that so say maybe 2 mins 30 sec)
Incidentally the thread actually made me check that my slow shutter speed noise reduction was switched on... It Was!!!
Best Regards - Pete.
Comment by PeteL posted on K20D post shoot processing times!!! at 18/10/2009 - 19:42
Hi Joe S
Many thanks for posting the link, There were some great images there, (Yours are pretty good too!)
Best Regards - Pete.
Many thanks for posting the link, There were some great images there, (Yours are pretty good too!)
Best Regards - Pete.
Comment by PeteL posted on ...before they disappear at 18/10/2009 - 19:09
Smeggypants wrote:
And yeah as said the K7 also suffers. I can't afford one at the moment anyway.
I have taken Many hundreds of long exposure shots with the K7 and i can assure you that it takes noise free images and the write time is no different to a normal exposure! I took my first one on my very first outing with the Camera A 30 second shot of a Chapel interior using multiple flash during the exposure. I wrote on a post here on this Forum about how astonished i was as i had been anticipating a 30 sec wait as i had been used to the K10D and Ist DL.PeteL wrote:
Perhaps you should consider a K7? as it does`nt appear to use a Dark Frame (unless it can do it simultaneously with the original exposure or something like that?)
It would be interesting to find out as i have not read anything in reference to it,
As regards doing your 30 second test could you not just do a test with 15 seconds or less and use a wider aperture than you plan to use for the final shot? Say - Test at 15 secs at F11 instead of 30 secs at F16.
Best regards - pete
Good point. never thought of that Perhaps you should consider a K7? as it does`nt appear to use a Dark Frame (unless it can do it simultaneously with the original exposure or something like that?)
It would be interesting to find out as i have not read anything in reference to it,
As regards doing your 30 second test could you not just do a test with 15 seconds or less and use a wider aperture than you plan to use for the final shot? Say - Test at 15 secs at F11 instead of 30 secs at F16.
Best regards - pete
And yeah as said the K7 also suffers. I can't afford one at the moment anyway.
I was just thinking that a handheld lightmeter might be another option for you to consider as there are many good second hand models out there.
Best Regards - Pete.
Comment by PeteL posted on K20D post shoot processing times!!! at 18/10/2009 - 09:01
Best Regards - Pete.