Consensus is that the old 4-5.6 version is sharper at 10mm. I think there was a HSM variant of the old one although mine hasn't got it. The 3.5 version looks a bit softer at teh edges at 10mm but the distorion looks simpler, and you get an odd number of aperture blades, and more of them, which is nice if you like sunstars.

They're both very good but have a look at Lenstip's review of the 8-16. I'd be tempted by that one I think.

Went into the restored Turkish Baths in Leamington Pump Room recently (it's a few yards from the office). Nice job, but the beautiful paintwork and tiles they had lovingly restored were hidden behind numerous interpretation boards, incongruous handrails etc. Rubbish.

I would rather appreciate the space as it was. If I want to know about it I can pick up a leaflet...

I would not feel especially comfortable doing that, especially with the flash! He's got a good technique though, get them before they have chance to react

These are good but the first one in fabulous! Very nicely observed comp.

Welcome Tord!

Thanks for the heads up on Phocus. Always good to hear of another free Raw converter / editor. Coming from Hasselblad I imagine it should be quite good!

And just to add, it's 3 years since the filter saw it's last outing :$

To be honest I've ended up using my grads without the holder (held in place!) Mainly because I haven't got anything to fit my Sigma 10-20, but since then I just find that it's quicker and easier to adjust them, so long as I can hold them absolutely flat to the front of the lens... My latest portfolio pic was taken this way, although I also darkened the sky in PP.

Do you think it would have been as large as the Samyang one (which looks an amazing lens)!

The Sigma does seem to be the only option, although I'd prefer the FA31 of course!

With a tele lens you reduce the field of view and sense of depth considerably. I'm talking about replicating the effect of a fast 50 on 135mm but on APSC - the environmental portrait with the context discernible but blurred enough to make the subject pop out from the surroundings. This isn't my primary shooting mode by any means but it's nice to have that option as it gives a look more akin to film / full frame, and creates a sense of depth.


Obviously if you are using a true wide lens for landscapes etc you will generally be stopping down.