All Forum Comments
Comment by paulcliff posted on World Bike Race at 16/06/2017 - 14:14
Comment by paulcliff posted on testing the K3 II at 17/05/2017 - 08:33
Comment by paulcliff posted on Emmets Garden at 17/05/2017 - 08:30
They're good Paul. Good sharpness and neutral backgrounds.
Last week there was a photo of Algi uploaded, now you've spotted LennyBloke out and about!
Both shot with DA 55-300mm F4-5.8 at 230mm f5.6
I've been neglecting that lens as of late in favour of always having my Sigma 17-50 f2.8 permanently attached, I'm so glad I took the 55-300 that day as I'd forgotten what a lovely lens it actually is. The owl was taken with the same lens, I've got my telephoto bug back
Comment by paulcliff posted on Couple of meerkats at 17/05/2017 - 08:29
Comment by paulcliff posted on Couple of meerkats at 16/05/2017 - 23:33
I go along with Philip and Chris. the simple solution is move him away from the wall or anything close behind. Back in the days when I did weddings people would gather beside a wall so I just moved them away. also all I had was my hammerhead flash pointed at a "hopefully" white ceiling. OR/AND hand held off camera.
CHEERS Vic.
P.S. he's a good looking lad. Does he take after his mother?????
But yeah, he totally does.
Comment by paulcliff posted on Portraits - on camera flash at 15/05/2017 - 09:45
Lovely smiley shots, they're bright and cheerful looking!
A 50mm at F4.0 is quite challenging focus-wise I think, and I feel you'd get a sharper result with something more like F8 .... This shouldn't affect the exposure or steadiness of the shot at all, so long as you maintain the 180th sec shutter speed.
I believe the shadow lines are the result of too much direct, front-on flash .... this is caused by not having a great enough angle to your bounce position (so not acute enough), and there is light spilling from the flash head going forwards. You really need at least a full 90deg turn away to prevent light coming forward, and if light is bouncing down from a corner and ceiling behind you then still some can be hitting the face from a front-on direction. The best way to avoid this is to use the 'flag' type modifier (like the one I showed in my 'A Flag, A Flash ...' thread) to prevent any light spilling forwards, and then use a strong angle to reflect the light off a surface that brings it back from the side and a little above.
This technique will increase the contrast across the face giving that 'form' and modelling effect. If you had a longer focal length also then you could shoot some closer in head and shoulder shots with the exact same settings and lighting very easily.
Of course we all know that Vic is wrong .... (about who he takes after that is ! )
As for sharpness, the jpeg exported from LR that I'm looking at on my desktop is pin sharp, but for some reason doesn't look that sharp at all on the forum, must be compression or something when it's uploaded.
Comment by paulcliff posted on Portraits - on camera flash at 15/05/2017 - 09:44
And yes I agree about the wall above the sofa.
Comment by paulcliff posted on Portraits - on camera flash at 12/05/2017 - 15:10
Comment by paulcliff posted on A Portrait at 12/05/2017 - 13:43
Most people there are used to me always having my 'big' camera with me and sticking it in their face so I'm not too worried about that. My wedding photographer from last year was using a 35mm lens with a flash gun on top of his camera and he produced some really nice results with that setup - granted he knew what he was doing I assume!
At the moment I'm thinking of using the 17-50 f2.8 on the K3ii and putting the 50mm f1.8 on the K-x and either using it as a second camera or giving it to my younger brother to use as he's shown some talent with a camera in the past.
Comment by paulcliff posted on My first 'event' at 12/05/2017 - 13:42



