Hi Matt
The Hi Speed sync only works with the special Hi Speed external flash - at least that is the theory as I understand it - unless you know something different. Certainly, I cannot get anything using it with the pop up flash.

The slow speed sync offers some solution by going to Manual and deliberately under exposing the image but then supplementing the shot with the pop up flash.

I sent a second e-mail to Pentax pointing out that they had not answered the question I posed - still waiting an answer!

All I want to do is introduce a bit of extra light to lighten the shadows close up on a bright day. I certainly do not want to haul around extra flash equipment.

I guess I will have to go back to the Minolta A2 - at least until Pentax/Samsung release their answer to the Sony(Minolta) Alpha.

Graham

Sent a "help" email to Pentax - got a reply to a different question!

Will try again

However, closer reading of the manual - always a good idea, but who does when there is a new toy to play with - reveals something called Hyper mode. Page 91 talks about Slow Speed Sync Mode and setting Hyper mode. Apparently it balances foreground and background exposure using flash and requires a shutter speed less than 150 sec.
Anyone familiar with this concept? Does it work?
Must try it tomorrow, time permitting.

I will also try the hi-speed setting - if I can find it - now where is the manual?

Graham

Thanks, folks
At least I have not missed anything or misread the instructions.
Yep, I thought Pentax might do a firmware upgrade - the D electronics cannot be too different (if any) from the later versions. Guess they must have their reasons, but it does seem a massive oversight on their part. To be honest, I sort of took it for granted when I bought the machine, like PASM, etc, especiallly since it did not have those "creative" modes on the dial. Just goes to show that I should read the spec a little more carefully, but it probably would not have changed my decision.
Perhaps an email, to Pentax to see what they say.
Graham

My other camera is a Minolta A2 bridge. The on board flash power can be set at vartious levels - I normally leave it at 1/4 power as this seems to deliver just enough extra light to brighten the shadows.

How do I do this with the istD?

I thought that the whole point of TTL monitoring and on-board flash was that it "burned" for just long enough to produce an acceptable exposure allowing for ambient lighting conditions. There does not seem to be a fill-in setting on the camera and if I follow the instructions in the manual all I get is a very burned out image.

Nor is there any flash compensation which might help..

I have experimented with "hoods" made out of tissue paper but they are not very successful.

In the old days you could go someway to resolving the problem by setting a different ISO to the actual film, but with modern digital even this does not apply.

I could, of course, switch to manual and underexpose for normal lighting and let flash make up the difference - I think - but I am not that good!

It is not a big deal, but sometimes the shadows do need a bit of lighting up.

Any ideas?

Graham

I fancy a bi-focul viewfinder - one that shows a wide angle view then when the shutter is half pressed gives the actual view through the lens. It would make plane and bird spotting a lot easier. By the time I have spotted the subject, adjusted the zoom and waved it about trying to locate the subject, the bird has flown! A (very) high speed zoom would do the trick. Anyone know of one at budget prices!
Graham

Hi
Try http://www.digicaminfo.btinternet.co.uk/hmcablerelease.htm

They have sufficient instructions to make your own. You can get all the required bits from Maplins - should cost about a fiver for a handy sized job, but obviously a bit more if you want a very long lead. All you need is a steroe jack plug, a couple of push buttons, a box to house the push buttons, and a length of 3 core (stereo) wire - and of course a soldering iron but keep it away from the camera. The deluxe version I referred to earlier simply has an inline male/female connecter that can be broken to fit an extension so you can have a short lead then extend it if the need arises.

The first one I made was for a Minolta and required the cannibalisation of a CD ROM lead. All the bits came from the "bit-box" - the switch box was an old 35mm film case - total cost zero. The final de luxe version used a plastic connection box from Maplins about the size ot a 10 pack of cigarettes - total cost about 6 quid.

I think the above site actually gives you the connections, but they are simply 2 push connectors utilizing a common return - hence three (stereo) wires.

Note, when positioning the switches consider the best position. You probably will want to be able to roll your thumb over the two buttons.

Graham

Whilst you are at it, get a male and a female in-line stereo plug combo (from Maplins). Cut the remote cable in half and solder in the combo. Now if you want an extended lead you just pop out and buy a stereo headphone extension and plug it in the mdiddle. I modified a Minolta remote and it works a treat for me.
Graham

I would second http://www.ukcamera.com/denton/cokina.htm. He might be a tad pricier tha some of the mass internet suppliers but he is good to talk to and advise. Delivery is excellent in my experience
Graham

Thanks Matt.
Graham

Hi
Thanks to Mat, Dan, Brian for your input. It takes a little time to get my head round things these days. I have a couple of LCEs within about 12 miles so I will have to give them a look.
Cracking shots - something to aim for.
Graham