That was what I thought when I saw at least two cameras with flashes mounted and long lenses at Shoreham Airshow.

Take three -

[IMG]http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/Oggy3323/Enginehouse4.jpg[/IMG]

I have had a go at lightening the shadow on the door and taken the saturation out of the back windows. I am not very happy with the border between the light and shadow on the door and am going to look into dodge and burn when I get a bit more time.

I straightened the picture using image - transform - distort. It has had an interesting effect in that when I look at it, my brain says that I am viewing a basically cuboid object from off centre so it should not be straight and there is something wrong yet I agree it looks better than the first one which is geometrically more accurate.

PSE7 does have the straightening tool that Gartmore describes, but it works by rotating the whole picture so the line you have described is horizontal. It didn't have the desired effect with this picture.

Hi Carty - welcome to the forum. I can't speak from experience on this camera, but on some you have to press the OK or Select button to get connected to the pc.

Thanks for the link Kay. Some good stuff there. I actually did it slightly differently. I used the "magnetic lasso" tool to define the coloured area them took all of the saturation out of the background.

I had a go at straightening up the picture and it now looks like this -

[IMG]http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/Oggy3323/Enginehouse3.jpg[/IMG]

Thanks for everyone's help, I am getting some good learning in here.

Thanks for the comments and welcome to the forum Simon.

Dave - do you mean I should try to get the edges of the coloured area parallel to the edges of the photo?

We obviously didn't need to roll out the big guns to see off the opposition.

I have recently got PSE7 and have been trying to learn how to use it.

[IMG]http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/Oggy3323/Enginehouse.jpg[/IMG]

Any thoughts appreciated.

As a recent convert to Pentax, Mine was my OM1. Virtually Oggyproof and capable of a very reasonable image. Bought it second hand in 1985 with a couple of lenses and it's still going strong. The mechanics are so smooooooth!

Nice work Chris. I am still very much learning the trade. I am happy enough with what I have shot so far, but I agree, prop buur is good. Something to work on but probably next year now, or stick to turbines

Learnt me trade on valves.

A 2n3055 is a singularly Oggyproof transistor, but they do not sound as sweet.