Would anyone happen to know if there's any problem with locking the shutter up in bulb mode for ~10mins or more on my Ist DL2? I'm aware that it'll take a fair bite out of the batteries, but is there a risk of 'cooking' the dl2's sensor or anything? It'd be great if someone could confirm it for me.
Thank you

A while back when I realised that a remote control would be a useful thing to have, I was surprised that the pentax ones are so expensive After all, it is just a push to make switch with a plug on the end. So I made one ~ (yes, that is a film canister for the casing:wink

[IMG]http://i715.photobucket.com/albums/ww157/Mr_Ist/_IGP5101Small.jpg[/IMG]

The black button focuses, and the red one fires the shutter. The idea came from Daniel Bridge's post link here (Thanks Dan!) The nice thing is that you can decide how long you need the cable to be... and even knock up a simple extension if need be.

I've been using them with my ist DL2 for a while - so not a K10, but I imagine they would behave in exactly the same way ~ Procedure is -

Set aperture ring on lens,
Focus lens,
Camera on manual,
AE-L button to take a meter reading,
Shutter.

As they're manual, theres sometimes a little experimenting needed to find the right exposure. They work a treat. I'm looking for around £30 - some of the PK/A versions have been going for huge amounts recently.

Hello all,

I've recently put a PK set of extension tubes up on eBay, please have a look here if interested.

Thanks,
Douglas

Just to tack on the end, I found this page to quite useful in understanding F-Stops - link

Some useful info in there.

re shops in edinburgh, try Cameratiks - 122 morningside road. They tend to have piles of old stuff. Theres a shop just down the road (near holy corner with the four churches) that has a second hand cabinet, but I can't remember its name. It has a white front I think.

Thanks for all the replies - I'm not quite sure what to make of the anomaly though, as the awb setting was giving even more erratic results. The light was largely artificial, but there was some natural coming in from windows along the top of the hall.

Pentaxian's suggestion is an interesting one - not much that be done to avoid that apart from only pressing the shutter at a time that is a multiple of 16.7ms after turning the camera on...

I got hold of the 50 1.7 lens just for fencing events - its great! These fencing characters move like lightning and the kit lens just wasn't fast enough.

Yesterday I was taking pictures of a fencing event with my Ist DL2 - set to jpeg, and using a 50 1.7 lens. Everything was manual, and the settings were the exactly the same for the two pictures below. 1/200s, f/2, fluorescent wb, iso 800. However, they've turned out to have different color casts, despite being of the scene under the same lighting.




I'm wondering if theres anything I could do to avoid this - or is the brain of my dl2 just beginning to struggle?

I know one of the suggestions is likely to be to use Raw, and i often do but on this occassion jpeg was more convenient as some of the pics were distributed immediately.

I can quite believe that salt would make a mess of any lens coating - be it a salty splash or just salty air. Anyhow, being near water often means a lot of UV haze - another good reason why I use a filter.

Hopefully this one will view ok - its not on pbase anymore

The eyes [and ears] have it