A matt/frosted look looking from the back - usually not over the whole element. Easier to see slightly obliquely but pretty obvious. Sadly it's not the very last element which is pretty easy to get out (not that I have much clue how to re-cement them anyway)
Neal

I think Oggy meant something like one of these. The electron gun used to draw vector graphic 'lines' directly rather than raster scanning. A real blast from the past
Neal

On the other hand, I'm not long back from a slightly-longer-than planned trip to Marrakech (3 nights turned into 10) with a K20d and two Li-Ion batteries - deliberately left the charger at home. I took about 800 pictures and am still on the first battery. Both batteries (one original, on cheapy no-name) are two years old and have been cycled. So it's not all bad. Admittedly, I wasn't unhappy with Eneloop-type AAs (actually Hybrios and Sony Cycle Energy) in my old DL2 - and still use them in my flash. But when I tried to use 'ordinary' alkaline AAs they died very quickly (and the 'test set' that came with the camera didn't even power it up). Granted Lithium AAs and rechargeables are easier to get than dedicated Li-Ion ones, but when you're really in the middle of nowhere less-than-fresh Alkaline AAs might not be much help.
Neal

It's possible that we may see screwdrive removed from a low-end model (and SDM kit lenses introduced) a la Nikon to reduce costs. Not quite sure this makes as much sense with a two-model line up though.
Neal

Yep - looking through the rear element it's pretty obvious as (usually partial) fogging. Pity because it's small, light (OK a bit 'loose') and quite nice optically.
Neal

It's certainly interesting (and I'll be checking mine later) but if I understand correctly, it is about manual focus. There are three 'light paths' through an AF SLR: to the sensor/film; to the focusing screen via the mirror; and to the AF sensors (vi semi-silvered beam splitters in the mirror). They all need to be the same length (+/- not very much at all it seems) so if the bottom face of the focusing screen isn't in the right position, MF will be out. I can imagine though that it wouldn't help AF adjustment - your eye would be telling you its OOF and the AF thinks it is (or vice versa); and both might actually be wrong (in different directions) in the worst case.
Regards
Neal

Pretty sure this is the dreaded element separation assuming this is a FA 28-70 f4.0. They're supposed to be prone to it. Mine just got a lot worse and as far as I'm aware there's no fix. I'd love to find out differently though.
Neal

Last ones I used (2006?) were Tetenal Colortec C41 - which were fine (but not as cheap now as they were:shock though I only used a few as my 'usual' (more 'occasional' really) one got discontinued. Stopped doing it because of a deal I couldn't refuse on a DL2 which more or less coincided with the tiny ball bearing falling out of a tank spiral (again) while I was trying to get a film into it. I'd forgotten that - for me - the worst bit was always loading the spirals but that was the same for B&W.

BTW If you do it, be religious about washing and cross contamination.
Neal

You're not going to save any money but E6 and C41 are not really difficult. Unless you're prone to daydreaming the time and agitation are not a problem. The only tricky bit is keeping the temp spot on and it's not that bad - IIRC modern kits come with nice temp vs time graphs so you can work at a more convenient temperature rather than warming everything up and constantly checking if it's cooled down. Even the old slide process (E4?) with a million steps and the reversal stage in the middle wasn't too bad (just very boring).
Neal

I wondered that. And what's with the 'Front' and arrow? Like you wouldn't know? It must mean something other than the obvious.
Neal