montyaus

Joined: 28th January 2010

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montyaus
I can understand people not checking their lenses,I never have, last week after purchasing a 31 Limited and seeing it was not any better than my other lenses,apart from the boken ,which was dreamy,it started me thinking,I know that it is dangerous,so after seeing what has been written about the 31 I was disappointed,it didn`t come good until f8 so decided to check it for focus and found it back focused and needed +8 to correct.

all of my Sigma lenses are good enough,the 70-200 2.8 is spot on,the 150-500 front focuses slightly,so didn`t do any adjusting the others have been OK so maybe I will check later.

Jack.

Comment by montyaus posted on Poll: AF Accuracy Adjustments at 23/10/2012 - 23:29

montyaus
It will not be too dark,giving you good colours.

CMW put it better.

Comment by montyaus posted on Printing tips, when buying in prints at 03/08/2012 - 10:24

montyaus
Wouldn`t the bar at the bottom of the page give you the right brightness,if not it could be adjusted to give the right brightness.

Comment by montyaus posted on Printing tips, when buying in prints at 03/08/2012 - 10:01

montyaus
It may be a good lens but Gary could get the same results from a coke bottle

Comment by montyaus posted on 35mm f/2.4 at 29/07/2012 - 01:42

montyaus
The easiest way is to use bulb,

Open the shutter until a lightning strike is in the field of view,this is no more difficult than a trigger ,and you have to know ,or guess where the lightning is going to strike,and close the shutter after the strike,not knowing a lot about dark frame subtraction you would have to have it turned off or loose the next strike (ah the beauty of film cameras)and a good supply of power.

Almost any settings will work as the lightening is similar to a flash, and you can experiment to achieve the results you want

Comment by montyaus posted on Lightning trigger at 04/07/2012 - 22:05

montyaus
Thank you for the reply,

that is not the answer I hoped for but I have tried all combinations to no avail and hoped there was some way.

I am going to a wedding on the beach in a months time and would liked to have used a m35 f2, as it will be back lit,HSS fill in flash would be ideal,looks like biting the bullet for a 31 LTD.

Comment by montyaus posted on Manual Lens HSS at 21/06/2012 - 17:31

montyaus
How can get HSS to work with a manual lens

I have set camera to manual,Metz 50 to HSS,auto ISO off,every time it is set higher than 180 it will revert back to 180,it works on other lenses OK,just manual lenses.

Comment by montyaus posted on Manual Lens HSS at 21/06/2012 - 16:33

montyaus
Some thing to look at is the Pentax 55-300,I have the sigma 70-300 which is not too bad but reading from the different forums the Pentax is better.

Comment by montyaus posted on K10D what Lenses should I or CAN I get? at 14/06/2012 - 12:29

montyaus
This is for sigma lenses,from their web site.


APO (Apochromatic )
In order to attain the highest quality images, the APO lens has been made using special low-dispersion (SLD) glass and is designed to minimize color aberration.
ASP (Aspherical)
The aspherical lens complex allows freedom of design, improved performance, a reduced number of component lenses and a compact size.
OS (Optical Stabilizer Function)
This function utilizes a built-in mechanism that compensates for camera shake. It dramatically expands photographic possibilities by alleviating camera movement when shooting by hand held camera.
HSM (Hyper-Sonic Motor)
This lens uses a motor driven by ultrasonic waves to provide a quiet, highspeed AF.
RF (Rear Focus)
This lens is equipped with a system that moves the rear lens group for highspeed, silent focusing.
IF (Inner Focus)
To ensure stability in focusing, this lens moves the inner lens group or groups without changing the lens' physical length.
CONV (APO Teleconverter EX)
This lens can be used with the APO Teleconverter EX. It can increase the focal length and will interface with the camera's AE (automatic exposure) function.
EX (EX Lens)
The exterior of this lens is EX-finished to denote the superior build and optical quality, and to enhance its appearance.
DG (DG for Digital)
These are large-aperture lenses with wide angles and short minimum focusing distances. With an abundance of peripheral illumination, they are ideal lenses for Digital SLR Cameras whilst retaining suitability for traditional 35mm SLRs.
DC (DC for Digital)
These are special lenses designed so that the image circle matches the smaller size of the image sensor of most digital SLR cameras. Their specialized design gives these lenses the ideal properties for digital cameras, the compact and lightweight construction is an added bonus ! including compact and lightweight construction.

Comment by montyaus posted on K10D what Lenses should I or CAN I get? at 14/06/2012 - 10:22

montyaus
I have the smc tak 55-1.8 it is razor sharp,the smc 35-2 is not too far behind, I don`t use them very much,I don't know why

Comment by montyaus posted on first M42 lens with pixie dust reccomendation please at 12/06/2012 - 08:32

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