Cheaters will always cheat,there is not an easy answer to that problem but to make it clear and transparent the rules for nature photos should exclude the hand of man,if a photo has a bird sitting on a fence post or wire,or a branch has been cut it is excluded the same would apply with animal shots.

The wild life-parks are the only way for a lot of amateur's to photograph some of these animals,in Australia we have different animal and bird to the UK,I can photograph Tasmanian devil`s and Kangaroo`s in the wild you won`t be able unless you come here.that is why it is fairer and lets any one obtain photos of exotic animals and birds.

This was taken at Monarto Zoo a few months back,it could be entered in Nature comps,I don`t think any one would know.

The seller mentions there is a fault in the rear element 2x2mm I wouldn`t buy it.

I don`t know any thing about soligor lenses someone might be along to help.

Jack.

Here are a few taken at the local Air field with the 150-500 Sigma, you may not be so lucky, as i had very good lighting conditions,but was shooting into the sun

the exif is in the photo,

[IMG]http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab142/montyaus/transport/IMGP5411-aa.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab142/montyaus/transport/IMGP5675-1024.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab142/montyaus/transport/IMGP5538-1024.jpg[/IMG]

Sorry for that Vic it is the largest aperture smallest number.

Late night for me it is about 2am over here.

cheers, Jack.

Ps left out number,should read ,the smallest aperture number.

Vic the smallest aperture is what you need,the DOF is at its smallest

making it easer to adjust,if you do it at the largest(smaller number)

aperture this is where you need exact focus as you close the lens the

DOF is larger and doesn`t affect the shots as much.

Hope this is as clear as mud.

Jack.

There are threads on this forum on how to adjust the lenses,if you do a search you will find it is quite easy to do.

The Sigma`s don't need any adjustment,or are nearly right(maybe
+/- 1 ) as for the 31 limited it needs +8,when i first tried it at different aperture's it wasn`t ok until f8 not what one would expect from a top prime.

Jack.

This is one taken a few days ago,not doing very much but it is my hobby and enjoyment





Jack

Photo-shop is the program that I have been using (CS2) you can use it as a basic program,levels,brightness & contrast,sharpen,you can use it in this way and look up on-line tutorials as you progress.

You have a top of the line program used by many togs here,and can you find someone local with more knowledge, to help you under stand the workings.

My best buy lenses are; siggy 18-35 with 82mm Tamron circular polariser and Kenko pro 1d Uv, which cost me $50,I don`t use it much,as my favourite and newest is the 31 limited,the quality from this lens makes me look like a photographer.

The 150-500 siggy is good, but the 70-200 2.8 lives on the K7,so they are all good buys for different reasons.

Jack.