the problem is further compounded by the inkjet manufacturers using the "think of a number and double it" aproach when specifying what their printers are capable of. My Canon Pixma claims to be capable of 4800DPI. Does it produce better images than Johns Epson at 2880? probably not, and if it does it will be as a result of better driver software or clever ink technology and almost certainly not because of notional DPI capabilities.

The DL2 has 5, but still only allows wide and spot. TBH though even on my K10D I leave it on spot nearly all the time, so you're not missing a lot.

P mode on the DL2 is just "normal" program, it picks aperture and shutter speed for you, everything else is up to you. The DL2 doesn't have hyper program so you have no control over which aperture/shutter combination it picks. For this reason I rarely use it, prefering Av mode which gives more control and nearly as much automation. P mode is good if you are shooting targets of oppotunity in rapidly changing light conditions though.

agreed, I went DL2 to K10D and most of my custom functions are the same, the only ones I had to think about are those which weren't on the DL2.

Hi there,

I have had a DL2 for about the same time as you. I now have a K10 as well but the DL2 is still a fine piece of kit.

Exposure steps: does exactly what it says on the tin, selects weather you adjust aperture and shutter speed in 1/2 or 1/3 stop intervals

link AF point and AE: biases the multi point metering towards the selected AF point. I have this turned on reasoning that the AF point is where my subject is so I want that bit metered correctly

Meter operating time: governs how long the meter stays on for after you release a half press on the shutter button

AE-L with AF locked: Locks exposure when AF is locked on. I have this on as I usually use the centre AF point, focus and then re-compose, again I like to have the AE biased towards my main subject.

AE-L button in M exposure: Controls the "hyper manual" function. If you hit the AE-L button in M mode, the camera adjusts the exposure to the metered light level either by adjusting both Aperture and Shutter speed to the program line, or leaving one unchanged and setting the other. I have mine set to change the shutter speed so that it acts the same whether I'm using a modern lens or an M series.

hope this helps

F22 is pretty closed down, the camera will try to maintain a high enough shutter speed to hand hold by bumping the ISO as needed. If you are taking pictures in the shade or even just of something a bit dark it could easily end up at 1600 with F22 aperture.

I thought so, didn't I tell you the 18-55 is allright?

what a lovely picture, if he were my dog that would be framed and on my wall. Looks like you nailed the focus and the exposure to my eyes, his nose is perhaps just a tad bright but its not enough to really annoy, and white pets are always a pain to expose right.

really shows the detail the K10D is capable of, which lens did you use?

Liam Liam Liam, you are forgetting about animals 6th sense for camera field of view. Surely by now you must have noticed by now that the closest they ever come to you is 1.5x the effective range of your longest lens.

getting better gear just means the animals stay further away!

well it can't get a lot LESS photographic than we've been having.

I feel I should appologise, it's probably my fault for buying a K10D

or perhaps it is all of our collective murphy related bad luck?

right but I also keep both eyes open, left over from long range rifle shooting where you need to be able to see the wind flags and the telescopic sight at the same time.