my K10D averages 75-80 shots on a 1G card, though as you have noticed it always claims 62 when the card is empty.

Pentax have a long tradition of underestimating how many shots will fit on a card.

F6.7 is very slow, AF is not specified to work with a lens that slow so although it probably will (hey, it's a Pentax) it will be less reliable than it might otherwise be

Baring in mind that this is coming from someone who hasn't used either, I'd take the Tamron over that Sigma any day of the week.

The good Sigma is the 70-300 APO, (and the 100-300 constant F4, but that's a £700 lens) the 100-300 F4.5-6.7 is their lowest of the low base model and I'd be surprised if it's any good.

I find the manual for any new toy is an excellent way to keep myself occupied while waiting for the batteries to charge.

Don't think I've opened my K10D manual since that little red light went out for the first time.

Chris, this is what you are missing:

Shake is always present. Every shot you've ever taken has camera shake to some degree. The 1/focal length "rule" is just a guide to tell you when it is likely to become visible in a large proportion of frames printed at normal sizes.

With a crop sensor you are effectively blowing up every shot 50% bigger than you were on film (assuming the same final print size). This means that for shake to be visible it only has to be 2/3 the size it would be on film. Hence on a DSLR without SR you should use 1/1.5x focal length.

thats a good point, should be nothing to stop them doing a PC lens based on a 35mm compatible ultra wide. Would be pricey though and limited audience probably means it wont happen

it's certainly true that they used to have one on their website, can't see it anymore though. Perhaps some lucky soul finally stumped up the £400 asking price.

50-135 F2.8 SDM

Fast AF on a fast enough lens for indoor sports. covers my most used range in fencing photography (currently covered by 50, 90 and 135 primes) with added versatility and no loss of speed except at 50mm. Also will probably be better quality than my 135 prime since it's an old F2.5 Tak Bayonet without SMC.

look at any thread where a lens is accused of having lots of CA and you'll quickly see someone suggest that most CA is easily removed in software.

The brain possesses some of the best image manipulation and reconstruction software known. It clones out your blind spot perfectly believably in real time, I'm sure it could manage a little bit of CA.

I've had both Canon and Nikon users comment on the quality of images from my DL2, and I've directly compared the results to those from a friends 20D and found the Pentax to be easily on par if not better. My friend agrees and now regrets going Canon. Really, as a K10D user there is nothing wrong with the DL2.

Saying that there are a LOT of things VERY right with the K10D, but I just want to make sure you aren't over estimating the role of the camera body in the process of making great pictures.

The reason my DL2 beats a my friends Canon at 3 times the price is that the 18-55 is a passable lens, whereas the standard Canon kit lens is awful. It's all about the glass on the front.

The K10D is a lovely camera and I can understand why it's tempting, but ask yourself this. Are all your photographic needs met by the 18-55? I'm assuming it's your only lens since you haven't mentioned any others. For the price of a K10D you could have almost any lens in the Pentax lineup. I don't know what you like to shoot but in your position I'd be looking at a 50-200 now and then upgrade the 18-55 to a 16-45 when the 16-50 finally arrives and the prices drop. Just a suggestion.

The best way to maximise bang/buck in photography is to really know what you want and why you want it.

The *istDL2 is a fine camera, if you're not blowing shots up to A3 you wont notice the image quality difference going to a K10D. Don't upgrade to a K10D just because it's a "better" camera, figure out why (and indeed IF) your photography needs the extra features in the K10D.

If it turns out you don't need them, why pay for them? get a lens.

If like me you decide that 3FPS for 9 frames (unlimited JPEGS), SR, Sv, TAv and hyper modes with the promise of eventual SDM lens support are worth the extra cash, go for it.