it does, but not when it's plugged into a computer via USB

The long shelf life NiMH's are more commonly sold as Uniross Hybrios in the UK. I have had mixed results with mine, overall I prefer the 7DayShop 2500s which I have found to have a suprisingly good shelf life, although it is possible that my charger just doesn't like Hybrios very much.

My Dad tends to carry a set of one use lithiums in his camera pouch as emergency back up batteries. They have a 10 year shelf life so you can just put them in the bag and forget them until you need them.

CRV3s are fine with the K100 and earlier cameras, it's re-chargable CRV3's you have to watch because their voltage can be significantly high (3.7V instead of 3). Chris at SRS supplied me with a pair with a refurbed *istDS and they were still going strong at 1000 frames when someone who will remain nameless but has a reputation for killing snakes left the camera switched on overnight and killed them.

I reckon a tone curve to drop the contrast some, a little bit of desaturation and some sharpening. Nothing I would call major.

if they are having to use the Fn key to set ISO, they have not read the manual.

My K10D has ISO set up on the front wheel in all modes except M.

not to mention the DA 18-55 MKI came out in 2004.

It doesn't take a degree in Maths to figure out that's 4 years, not 8.

I must admit I just can't imagine going on holiday and not taking photographs. Even before I was really interested in photography as a hobby in its own right, I can't remember a holiday where I didn't have a camera.

But I think a lot of people couldn't be bothered with the rigmarole of taking shots on film, sending it off and so on. Digital P&S has finally really put a camera in everyones pocket.

I may be wrong, but I think the 50 F1.4 is actually the ONLY quality lens which you don't already have and which is available new inside your price range.

ps when I say cheap in reference to the Tak 135, I'm talking well under £30 second hand.

its fast aperture will be a god send in that situation, but you will need to be quite close to the action. As long as the hall isn't too big and you're not too far back, it will be the best option in your price range.

I also carry a 135mm F2.5 Takumar Bayonet for this sort of thing.

It's manual focus, manual aperture (actually, mine is jammed wide open!) and it's far from the worlds best lens. BUT it's fast, long and cheap and if you can get the Japanese version it's not as bad as most people seem to think it is.

the key question when deciding what lens to get next is this:

What do you want to photograph which your current gear can't capture.


if you can't answer that question, don't buy any more lenses.