All Forum Comments
Comment by max11 posted on newbie question: DOF in landscapes at 05/06/2009 - 20:18
johnriley wrote:
Also bear in mind that lenses perform best at mid apertures, maybe around f8 for most good lenses, probably more like f16 for not so good lenses. Balance this against DOF requirements.
Oh, I didn't know that! (I knew only mid focal lenghts, or at least I think!)Also bear in mind that lenses perform best at mid apertures, maybe around f8 for most good lenses, probably more like f16 for not so good lenses. Balance this against DOF requirements.
I like a lot increased DOF, so I often set the biggest possible. I ll have a check and see what the 2 pictures look like
Is that true also for the 50mm f 1.7?
As for taking a cliff side from a distance, if the cliff is parallel to the camera then there will be enough DOF at almost any aperture, so choose the optimum one for quality. Flat subjects do not need massive amounts of DOF.[/quote]So I was not too far from the correct concept.
thanks!
Comment by max11 posted on newbie question: DOF in landscapes at 05/06/2009 - 18:44
Thank you John, that is true for a sequences of cliffs for example, usually we want more DOF.
what about if I want to shot only the side of one cliff that is far?
max possible apereture inthat case?
what about if I want to shot only the side of one cliff that is far?
max possible apereture inthat case?
Comment by max11 posted on newbie question: DOF in landscapes at 05/06/2009 - 18:30
Really a fantastic forum, users always ready to help!
thank you, you are transmitting me the photographic pathology!
thank you, you are transmitting me the photographic pathology!
Comment by max11 posted on friendly forum at 05/06/2009 - 17:59
I think I master quite well the concept of DOF (and its relationship with focal lenght, subject distance and aperture), but I'm always in doubt when it comes to landscapes (let's say a coast one for example).
How do you do? How do you decide if you want more or less DOF?
How do you do? How do you decide if you want more or less DOF?
Comment by max11 posted on newbie question: DOF in landscapes at 05/06/2009 - 17:56
definetely helpful!
I never saw them, but I do suspect there is a difference in quality beteween P and Z series due to the huge difference in price.
If I buy now the P series, and then enjoy them...can I use the holder for better quality filter (Lee? others?)or have I to buy the Z pro holder?
and can I use the same holder it for a screw filter?
(I read both somewhere in the post but can't find anymore!)
Quote:
The quote from Cokin regarding 19mm lenses is assuming the lens is used on a 35mm camera. At 12mm the 12-24 is about the same angle of view as a 18mm lens on film, hence a very slight vignetting at this widest point that has disappeared by 14mm.
so there is a little bit of vignetting between 12 and 14?The quote from Cokin regarding 19mm lenses is assuming the lens is used on a 35mm camera. At 12mm the 12-24 is about the same angle of view as a 18mm lens on film, hence a very slight vignetting at this widest point that has disappeared by 14mm.
Quote:
As for a CPL, I wouldn't bother with one for the 12-24. For a CPL to work properly it needs to be at 90 degrees to the light source (the Sun usually). At 12mm you will have an angle of view greater than 90 degrees so the effects of a CPL will never be even across the frame and your skies will have different colours on one side compared to the other.
sorry, too complex concept for me!As for a CPL, I wouldn't bother with one for the 12-24. For a CPL to work properly it needs to be at 90 degrees to the light source (the Sun usually). At 12mm you will have an angle of view greater than 90 degrees so the effects of a CPL will never be even across the frame and your skies will have different colours on one side compared to the other.
I never saw them, but I do suspect there is a difference in quality beteween P and Z series due to the huge difference in price.
If I buy now the P series, and then enjoy them...can I use the holder for better quality filter (Lee? others?)or have I to buy the Z pro holder?
and can I use the same holder it for a screw filter?
(I read both somewhere in the post but can't find anymore!)
Quote:
ND filters are there to increase the shutterspeed but somethimes you can easily use an higher f/number to bring up shutterspeed or else a single screw-in ND4 filter will help you enough.
I'm not completely sure that the effect is the same, to me the idea is more similar to applying an exposure compensation - same DOF but longer shutter timeND filters are there to increase the shutterspeed but somethimes you can easily use an higher f/number to bring up shutterspeed or else a single screw-in ND4 filter will help you enough.
Quote:
Another option with waterfalls is to make several shots and merge them together, the water will be blurred aswell then... at least I think that will work
I think that works, but I do not like a lot the post production!Another option with waterfalls is to make several shots and merge them together, the water will be blurred aswell then... at least I think that will work
Comment by max11 posted on About filters system at 05/06/2009 - 17:52
Thank you that is very very helpful!! I think I will get those, especially if both of you are using that system on the 12-24.
Just a curiosity, the difference in price between the P and Zpro filters. Is due only to dimensions or to the quality?
While I could go for the screw-in CPL or even Cokin if I find them at a reasonable price
"Allows use on 19mm wide-angle lens. Has polariser and 1 other filter slot. Requires adaptor ring to mount on a lens"
thank you guys
Just a curiosity, the difference in price between the P and Zpro filters. Is due only to dimensions or to the quality?
While I could go for the screw-in CPL or even Cokin if I find them at a reasonable price
Quote:
you are limited to the use of just one filter. So you could not stack a ND filter with a grad filter for example.
What the website mean? you are limited to the use of just one filter. So you could not stack a ND filter with a grad filter for example.
"Allows use on 19mm wide-angle lens. Has polariser and 1 other filter slot. Requires adaptor ring to mount on a lens"
thank you guys
Comment by max11 posted on About filters system at 05/06/2009 - 13:57
Quote:
I got my Z-PRO set (holder gnd2, gnd4, gnd8 ) for €60... i might ask them if they ship to the uk.
I would appreciate that! I did a research among amazon,warehouse,ebay, those are the prices I found.I got my Z-PRO set (holder gnd2, gnd4, gnd8 ) for €60... i might ask them if they ship to the uk.
Now understand why definitely square system for landscapes and need nd2,4 and 8.
Do I need 2 hands if I use CPL and cokin togeteher?
Aren't the ND to create blurring effect on the water?
sorry... No more question!
Quote:
Cokin make a special slim holder which I use on the 12-24 (only has one slot)
which one do you mean exactly?Cokin make a special slim holder which I use on the 12-24 (only has one slot)
thanks
Comment by max11 posted on About filters system at 05/06/2009 - 08:13
Thank you for your help and sorry for the delay...
the game is complicated, I still have some questions
to sum up, everyone suggests a square system for ND filters, possibly Z-pro.
The difference in price between Z-pro and P is huge.
Z pro:
kit (holder+ gnd2,nd4,nd about £135
single GND's and ND's about £36/50
p:
kit (holder+ nd2,nd4,nd about £52
single GND's and ND's about £14/16
1-I would use the Z pro "only" on the DA 12-24. Is it worth it to spend that much? also because all Z-pro filters will cost much more. What is the disadvantages in using the series P? the vignetting?
2-if I decide to buy just one ND, which one should I go for? the nd4?
3-I had not realized that ND are different from GND, I'm more fascinated from the first one, many of you are mentioned the GND. DO you use them more often?
Stefan, I can't understand why a pol screw filter just for the 17-70?
could it be a good option screw filters (CPL and ND) for the 12-24 and Cokin P system to be used on 17-70 and the rest of my lenses?
the circular polarizer for Cokin is very expensive (£200)
with those money I can buy Hoya Pro1 in 2 different sizes!
The subject is very complicated,at least for me
the game is complicated, I still have some questions
to sum up, everyone suggests a square system for ND filters, possibly Z-pro.
The difference in price between Z-pro and P is huge.
Z pro:
kit (holder+ gnd2,nd4,nd about £135
single GND's and ND's about £36/50
p:
kit (holder+ nd2,nd4,nd about £52
single GND's and ND's about £14/16
1-I would use the Z pro "only" on the DA 12-24. Is it worth it to spend that much? also because all Z-pro filters will cost much more. What is the disadvantages in using the series P? the vignetting?
2-if I decide to buy just one ND, which one should I go for? the nd4?
3-I had not realized that ND are different from GND, I'm more fascinated from the first one, many of you are mentioned the GND. DO you use them more often?
Quote:
jon.dc says:
I use cokin P filter system with the wide angle filter attachment for the 12-24. You can only use one filter in the holder and no screw type filters on the front either (such as a UV filter), with this I get no vignetting. If you have a UV filter on the lens first you get vignetting at the widest angle.
On the 17-70 and above I use the standard P holder. I do get some vignetting at 17mm, but very slight and at this I will switch to the 12-24.
don't you find any vignetting on the 12-24?jon.dc says:
I use cokin P filter system with the wide angle filter attachment for the 12-24. You can only use one filter in the holder and no screw type filters on the front either (such as a UV filter), with this I get no vignetting. If you have a UV filter on the lens first you get vignetting at the widest angle.
On the 17-70 and above I use the standard P holder. I do get some vignetting at 17mm, but very slight and at this I will switch to the 12-24.
Quote:
ANvh says:
The 17-70 is probable your most used lens so I would get a pol screw-in filter for that one and for the rest a square filter system would be surely good enough. For the 12-24 a real landscape lens I would go for a square filter system. It really depends on what you want to do with your other lenses.
btw the filter for the DA17-70 is 67mm or is it another brand?
I have a Sigma 17-70, that explains the 72mm.ANvh says:
The 17-70 is probable your most used lens so I would get a pol screw-in filter for that one and for the rest a square filter system would be surely good enough. For the 12-24 a real landscape lens I would go for a square filter system. It really depends on what you want to do with your other lenses.
btw the filter for the DA17-70 is 67mm or is it another brand?
Stefan, I can't understand why a pol screw filter just for the 17-70?
could it be a good option screw filters (CPL and ND) for the 12-24 and Cokin P system to be used on 17-70 and the rest of my lenses?
the circular polarizer for Cokin is very expensive (£200)
with those money I can buy Hoya Pro1 in 2 different sizes!
The subject is very complicated,at least for me
Comment by max11 posted on About filters system at 04/06/2009 - 23:11
also the microtrekker 200 is a good deal in my opinion.
the only problem is the accessibility, not as good as the slingshot or fastpack.
the only problem is the accessibility, not as good as the slingshot or fastpack.
Comment by max11 posted on LowePro Microtrekker 100 for £17.49 on Amazon at 04/06/2009 - 21:13
so am I correct if I say:
-to have the sharpest image is better not to go over f16 (it would be nice to know that value for each lens. I tried on google, but didn't succeed).
-the reason to set a f/38 or f/32 is to increase the DOF (but losing sharpeness) or to reduce the light, while I do not increase the sharpenss
Stefan, very helpful as usual