Just a little tip...
When you add the Hue/Sat layer and desaturate it will do a 'regular' grey scale (where all colours have the same grey value).

If you change the blend mode from "Normal" to "Color" then the greyscale will be 'correct' - where blue will be represented as darker than yellow, etc.

Layer mask can be applied as suggested...

It usually gives a more pleasing B&W

HTH!
Matt

Don: the lens comment wasn't directed at you
The 50/1.4 fall into the "few choice lenses" Good point about manual focus and video work

Hi Don
True - studio work with controlled lighting will show small incremental improvements. But, location work, theatre, available light work takes the K7 & K5 into another league. Just did a shoot on Saturday in full sun - massive dynamic range. The 14-bit RAW of the K5 is unbelievable!! Just wish I could show you the difference with a live Lightroom session

Also have a couple of large prints with the K5 & DA*50-135. I am well pleased

Back on topic - be aware that modern lenses designed for digital will often be significantly better than older film lenses One of the big problems with older lenses and digital sensors is poor collimation. The depth of the pixel sites requires light to enter at right angles - otherwise you get vignetting and other effects. With the exception of a few choice lenses it is probably better to reconsider some of the newer glass. Perhaps borrow or rent?

Matt

When I was using the *ist-D and Capture One the profiles were not that good. I bought a decent colour profile and my images became a quantum jump better
I suspect that a FF Nikon is going to have a professionally done profile - with care and attention - while the Pentax profiles could well be sub-optimal

I am currently getting lovely results from the K-7 with LR3. Upgraded last week to the K-5 and the dynamic range and lack of noise is utterly astonishing! Prints straight out of LR onto 18x12" at 402dpi are razor sharp. Alas, I don't have a FF Nikon to compare against, but even the K-7 compared favourably against the 5D Mk1 when I tried it. The K-5 blows it away as far as I'm concerned

Matt

Not wishing to stop this debate....

Is it possible that processing differences have a bearing? I mean, are we talking like-for-like processing from RAW?
Over the years I've certainly learned that good image processing makes the difference between a good shot and a superb one.

If you're comparing out of camera JPGs then I'd expect a huge variance of results

Just a thought....
Matt

Actually, I find my DA17-70 an astonishingly good lens.

I've mentioned all the following points before in various threads...

The range is perfect for me (I like the long end!), and the contrast and colour are superb. I have some landscape shots taken with it that are almost too sharp!

For me the OOF rendition is sublime. It's as good as the FA24-90, and similar to the 50/1.4 at f/4. In fact, with the K-7 and K-5 I find I use the DA17-70 in situations where the 50/1.4 would have gone.

Having close focus ability is also useful. As mentioned, it can hunt a little at the 70mm end - but I tend to use centre focus only and the hunting occasions are rare.

The distortion isn't normally a problem, and is easily and quickly corrected in LR3

HTH!
Matt

My 2p worth...

* Use "A" on the flash (the lower power one I think is red?) The lower power on will recycle quicker and batteries will last longer. On digital you have the benefit of higher sensitivities than film
* Use "M" on the camera.
* Use a fairly high ISO - e.g. ISO800
* Set the camera aperture to match the reading on the flash
* Now adjust the shutter speed on the camera so that the exposure reads between -1Ev and -2Ev. The shutter speed should be slower than 1/180s.

If you don't like the shutter speed (either too fast or two slow), then adjust the ISO and repeat.

That way, the ambient lighting is just underexposed, and the flash will fill in the difference.

Try it at home first It's a doddle

... just watch out for the minimum and maximum distances too! If your subject is too close they will always be overexposed.

If you shoot RAW then you can always claw back some of the lighting in PP

Matt

I've used Asahi Photo for a couple of lens repairs - very helpful and professional!
http://www.asahiphoto.co.uk

Matt

Ha ha. You're right - once I saw the high ISO results
I'd happily shoot to 2500 on K-7. Initial look and I'm happy with 10000 on the K-5
Two whole stops - yahay!!
Matt

I gave in as well!
Ordered from SRS yesterday... K-5 and bits arrived about half hour ago.

Initial thoughts: menus are a bit different to the K-7 but more logical, shutter is wonderful, IQ is stunning, and even the 18-55WR is very respectably made!! LV is a huge improvement, dual level sensor is useful, configuration of RAW button is wonderful.

Have fun John & Sue!!
Matt