Really? Where?

Just checked and the Pentax UK site says:
Matt

It's not as straightforward as that
JPG does a colour transformation into YCbCr space that effectively involves throwing away some of the colour information. (It's essentially the mix you get when you use the Lab mode)
About 30% Red, 59% Green, 11% Blue.

See: YCbCr Wikipedia and JPG Wikipedia

Once you start trying to shift the colour around in PS or LR from a JPG you can run into problems if there's any blue (serious posterization effects, colour transformations etc).

Not that JPG is bad...

The RAW files from the K-5 are getting seriously big!
But, I do love the latitude from the RAW - being able to shoot in extremely contrasty situations without necessarily using fill-in flash and making good use of LR's controls

It's when I'm under pressure that I make the most mistakes (but even then I get a 3-out-of-4 keeper ratio).


I still tend to take photos as if I was using Fuji Provia
That discipline certainly makes you sort it out first, rather than waiting for PP!!

Matt

I've made my own bounce card out of "Funkyfoam" white craft foam.
Works a treat
e.g. http://www.themoment2cherish.com/DIY-Bounce-Card/
and http://www.ultimatebouncecard.com/

Just experiment!! You can try with different kinds of materials to diffuse, deflect, and affect the flash output.

Matt

PM sent

Can we see the complete EXIF? (preferably from 'exiftool')
Matt

It looks nice under the right circumstances... but I've done this in Photoshop using the Lens Blur and a correct depth map Certainly quicker than doing the pano + join!

Or there's Topaz Lens Effects that can do it too. There's a $49.95 offer on at the moment as well

Don't get me wrong - I'm not stopping people from experimenting! But in a commercial situation acquiring the correct PP tools and skills is certainlye cost-effective and controllable

Matt

Show me a metering system that doesn't get fooled

Your human brain & eye is about the only one that doesn't (though you only think it isn't fooled! There's plenty of illusions that can trick your exposure senses!)


It's 'cooking' the EXIF data
It showed the K-7 as 16 segment as well

If you check with the command-line EXIFTOOL you'll see a full set of 77 metering segment values for AE, Flash & Slave Flash metering on both the K-7 and K-5


Perhaps you've been reading AP's review of the K-5??? Isn't it wonderful when reviewers just cut-and-paste or simply assume, rather than double-checking their details!

Matt

There comes a point at which the flash cannot reduce its power any more - you'll get overexposed images when too close Even if you reduce the flash exposure you'll find when you are too close that adjustments make no difference. (Some flash guns, like the massive Metz 50MZ5 have amazing power control that allows you to go to 1/256 of the output power. Most flash guns can only reduce to somewhere around 1/32 or even 1/16)
I'll have to look to see what the Metz 58 can do...

As you increase ISO, the closest flash distance gets further away.
As you close down the aperture (ie higher f-number) the closest flash distance gets nearer.

If you're really stuck (and you need to get closer still) you can always slug the output of the flash by putting a diffuser in front Even a white paper tissue will halve or quarter the close distance (but likewise reduce your maximum distance too!).


In general, when the lighting is fixed I would suggest using M on the camera and setting it to about -1Ev to -2Ev of the ambient lighting (so if you took it without flash it would be one or two stops underexposed). Then use P-TTL on the flash and it should have no problems. You shouldn't have too much trouble at 6', but you would run into issues at 12".

Just experiment first
Matt

: Sorry if I misunderstood
Do you mean a remote wireless trigger mounted on the camera hotshoe?

If so, some have firing issues because the Pentax has a slightly different circuitry to other makes. The Pentax is pretty rugged and trigger older flashes with higher trigger voltages, whereas other makes can blow up their flash trigger circuitry! The net result, unfortunately, is that some models of trigger will (a) not fire, (b) fire once only, (c) sync only at very slow speeds.

(IIRC, it's to do with the thyristor in the Pentax bodies being 'frozen' by the leakage current from the trigger)

Matt

The popup flash will only do P-TTL mode (that's preflash TTL). Your 'dumb' slave module will trigger off the preflash

FYI, the "wireless" flash mode on the *ist-D is for full P-TTL wireless flash triggering to a remote P-TTL enabled flash (e.g. AF360FGZ or AF540FGZ). (The *ist-D can do all remote flash modes, including HS mode.)

If you need to do 'dumb' triggering then your best bet is to get a cheap 'dumb' flash to use on the camera. e.g. AF160 etc (or preferably one with full manual controls).

HTH!
Matt