fill flash at close distance

Is there something I have to take into account, when using flash at close distance? For instance to take a portrait at max 6 feet in a crowded event in a dimly lit room. Should I just go for manual mode on the camera and PTTL on the flash and use something like -1EV on it? I do not have much experience in shooting events and just try to educate myself. I'm very thankful for advice! I have K20d and Metz 58

There comes a point at which the flash cannot reduce its power any more - you'll get overexposed images when too close Even if you reduce the flash exposure you'll find when you are too close that adjustments make no difference. (Some flash guns, like the massive Metz 50MZ5 have amazing power control that allows you to go to 1/256 of the output power. Most flash guns can only reduce to somewhere around 1/32 or even 1/16)
I'll have to look to see what the Metz 58 can do...

As you increase ISO, the closest flash distance gets further away.
As you close down the aperture (ie higher f-number) the closest flash distance gets nearer.

If you're really stuck (and you need to get closer still) you can always slug the output of the flash by putting a diffuser in front Even a white paper tissue will halve or quarter the close distance (but likewise reduce your maximum distance too!).


In general, when the lighting is fixed I would suggest using M on the camera and setting it to about -1Ev to -2Ev of the ambient lighting (so if you took it without flash it would be one or two stops underexposed). Then use P-TTL on the flash and it should have no problems. You shouldn't have too much trouble at 6', but you would run into issues at 12".

Just experiment first
Matt

Thanks a lot! I have been experimenting with random objects around my house. There will soon be a birthday party to put these ideas into practise.

Set the Metz to P-TTL-HSS. This allows use of any shutter speed you want; the limit of 1/180 disappears. It also reduces the output by about one stop, which is advantageous in this situation. Set the camera to Av mode and freely set your aperture.

You can then change the shutter speed from the camera's default choice using EV compensation. To adjust the amount of the fill flash, use the flash exposure compensation. To save flash juice (if this is the issue) go for slightly higher ISO.

Always bouncing from a wall (preferably slightly behind you) if you can, as this diffuses the light.

I have the exact same gear as yourself and just shot a wedding reception successfully in this manner.

If you bounce the light off a wall or ceiling, just make sure those are white or neutral grey or you'll end up with a color cast. Bouncing the light off a green wall for portrait will for sure make your subject look like (s)he's about to be sick...

Batch correcting this in post is a better option than not bouncing.

But be careful bouncing off the ceiling or you might get shadows under the eyes and nose. That's a lot more work to correct!

Although I use a Metz 50 I have actually found diffusing the on-camera flash gives great results for shots for individuals / small groups within 1 -3 yards if you have no bounce option.

But that's actually quite natural, light almost always come from above so some shadows are to be expected and it will actually give some dimensions to the face.

Yes, that will correct the flesh tones, but anything that's closer or further from the flash will still have a color cast, ltough a didfferent one.

There's nothing like getting it right in the camera.

As for shadows when bouncing from the ceiling, they're not worst than the shadow cast by a nose on a three quarter profile when bouncing off a wall, so you pick the one you want.

Bounce off the ceiling but using a small catch panel attached to the flash head. (ie piece of white card fixed with adhesive tape)

That is a good solution for when there is no wall present. With the Metz you can also turn on the secondary bulb, which is a brilliant feature. (Pun intended.)

What is natural and desirable for portraits are often two different things! The goal of a portrait is to make your subject look good. How far one takes that is the question.

I made diffusers for my 540 and inbuilt flash out of bubble wrap and velcro, with some aluminium foil at the back for a catch panel Works a treat

That technique underexposes the ambient lighting so the flash gives your subject a little 3D "pop" out from the background.

also ensures the flash overpowers the ambient light ensuring even color balance on the subject.

A lot of great advice here! Thanks a lot!

I wonder, though, if you pros always bounce the flash when shooting at a large event like some reception or wedding? Since the distance to the ceiling or wall and their structure varies, wouldn't it be too difficult to predict how much light ends up on the person? Would a direct fill flash be an absolute NO in all situations?