For me - rear AF button every time.
That allows for prefocus, manual focus and regular. Even for portraiture it allows for focus-and-reframe

Takes a little while to 'learn', but I've used it for so long I don't even think about it anymore
Matt

I'm not convinced by the test
It looks like there are focus errors (looking at the definition of the top right wire).... I'd use the LiveView and focus with that to eliminate any phase AF correction errors

Matt

Hmmm.... looks like the left one at 210mm has front-focussed. The wire at the top right is sharper than the post.

Matt

First one - not bad, but probably not fast enough (f/5.6 at the long end)
Second one - ugh. Don't think you'd get past security either
Matt

(see my comment on your other thread regarding RAW and data rates)

What card specs?
At >20Mb per image, you'll need 40Mb per second write performance to get 2fps in RAW

e.g. the Samsung Extreme SDHC cards I use are rated at 20MB/s write

Matt

FWIW:
K10D = 10Mp, K-5 = 16Mp = bigger files

Matt

I keep everything - RAW converters improve over time, as do my skills (hopefully!)

On my working machine I keep approx the last 6 months, and everything gets replicated to two 2Tb Firewire drives that are stored in separate locations. Still use BeyondCompare (even on a Mac, but through PlayOnMac) to keep in sync.

Was on WiFi connected NAS - but that's waaaay to slow. Now using FW800, but wish I could justify the Pegasus Thunderbolt 4Tb RAID (does 500MB/s sustained!!!)

Like others, I keep my own directory structure, organised by year, and then dated and described.
If you use Lightroom, make sure you tick the box in catalog preferences to save the XMP file!!! (That way LR dumps the settings to the drive - and this can be backed up and sync'd along with the RAW files)

Matt

FWIW, the Pantone Huey is much faster than the Spyder. But a friend had serious issues with the Pantone software (it wouldn't calibrate his laptop LCD and gave a nasty hue)... I installed dispcalGui & arygllCMS and all was well with the Huey

Matt

For ANY fast moving objects, I always recommend disabling the "Focus on Half Press" and pre-focussing using the AF button on the back (see custom settings)

That way the camera will shoot instantly when you press the shutter - it doesn't care if it's in focus.
You learn to focus with the thumb on the AF - kind of like assisted manual focus

Personally, I use centre focus only with this technique. Works exceptionally well in dark conditions too (e.g. stage work)

Works for me...
Matt