Don't forget UK Customs though
They'll charge you VAT...

Matt

I've refined the B&W conversion technique using some of Photoshop's less frequently used features

I've done a first image which is here. There's also a guide to the technique and an action I put together to perform the whole thing: available here.

I will probably add some graphics and further descriptions to the tutorial when I get time.

I'd be interested in your comments!
Matt

Just found another, really nice, B&W toning method.
Here's the forum thread on ePhotozine:
http://www.ephotozine.com/forum/viewanswers.cfm?qid=12420&catid=9

And here's my first attempt:
http://www.ephotozine.com/gallery/showlargepic.cfm?photoid=97436

I'm happy!


Matt

I also have a few higher contrast B&W images, all converted from RAW in Photoshop CS (using adjustment layers: curves, channel mixer:60%R 40%G 0%B, and occassionally a hue/sat in colourise mode):
http://www.ephotozine.com/user.cfm?user=16488

Shooting in RAW give by far the most control. However, do use something like Photoshop CS's RAW convertor, or Capture 1 They will both give you amazing control over all factors of the RAW conversion - you might need a little practice at first, but it pays dividends!

Matt

Short answer: no.

Long answer: you can get fabulous results if you shoot in RAW mode, process on the PC (Pentax's plugin will do, but Photoshop CS is best IMO), then do the following (which works in Photoshop Elements too ):

1. Add a Hue/Saturation layer and set the layer mode to "Color". Leave all controls as they are. (This is your "Filter" layer)

2. Add a second Hue/Saturation layer and wind the saturation all the way to the left to turn to greyscale (this is your "Film" layer).

3. Now double click on the middle layer (the "filter" layer) and readjust the hue and saturation levels. You will find you can drastically alter the way the black and white conversion is performed.

It may sound complicated, but in reality only takes a couple of minutes. Plus you get just what you want out the image. The RAW mode will give you more detailed information, especially if you use Photoshop CS to do the conversion.

There are other ways, but this is simple and effective, and works in Elements as well as the full Photoshop.

Hope that helps!
(If not, I'll see if I can dig up a link to a tutorial...)
Matt

Colin,

To answer your questions:
1. There are four connections between the camera and flash. As long as the flash is on the camera (or tethered using the original Pentax leads) it will track the zoom lens. It's not just the zoom information that goes to the flash, but other mode information too. Works a treat

2. I have the AF360FGZ and bought the StoFen diffuser. Fantastic is all I can say. It stays permanently on the gun now Note that you need to angle the head up for normal shots, and benefits from having a ceiling, though this is not absolutely necessary. If you use it straight, then your flash distance is cut in half. Wonderful product though. If you check out their website, you can get an Omnibounce specifically for the flash gun you get - then you don't need sticky tape or velcro.

3. Your other alternative is the AF360FGZ. The 500FTZ is a monster of a flash gun - useful if you need the power. The 360FGZ is more curvey, has loads of features, and is definitely a better bet if you decide to upgrade the camera to: MZ-S, *ist, or *istD. If you can get the 330FTZ for a good price, it will always work on all the Pentax bodies, and you can even use two flash guns if you want to get complicated later on!

Hope that helps!
Matt

You can also check online at places like www.mxv.co.uk, www.ffordes.co.uk and www.parkcameras.com

From what I've seen an MZ5N body goes for about £120. Not so sure about the lense.

John's idea about eBay is a sound one... do a search (even for a Sigma in another mount, like Canon or Nikon), watch it in your eBay settings (assuming you have an account), then check the final sale value when the auction ends. That will give a very good indication of your sale price.

Hope that helps,
Matt

fasty,

Codes are listed here:
https://www.pentaxuser.com/faq/pentaxerrorcodes.html

E2 is a shutter related fault. Needs Pentax to repair it.

Matt

I also have to change my mind a little

Just bought a second hand SMC-F 100mm/f2.8 macro lens. Zoweeee So sharp!

I'm using this and the 50mm almost exclusively now. My zooms hardly get a look in

Matt

Ardent... why not try www.ephotozine.com - a great place to get criticised on your work!! (Run by Peter Bargh, who also runs this site). Uploads are limited to 500 pixels, and one per day.

There's also www.pbase.com - you'll have to pay $23, but you can put almost any size image on there.

Matt