All Forum Comments
Comment by MattMatic posted on 280T camera compatibility question. at 23/04/2004 - 06:57
Basic error codes are available here: (Under FAQs of the main website)
https://www.pentaxuser.com/faq/pentaxerrorcodes.html
"E" means a shutter related fault.
Matt
https://www.pentaxuser.com/faq/pentaxerrorcodes.html
"E" means a shutter related fault.
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on Problems with 105R Zoom... at 18/04/2004 - 20:46
The quality setting varies how compressed the JPG file will be.
*** means little compression, more detail and quality, but larger file size.
* means high compression, less detail, but smaller file size.
If you compared the images close up on the PC you should see more "artifacts" on the * setting. If you took a picture of the sky - you'd see little difference. However, take a picture of something with contrast (like some newspaper text in macro mode) and you'll see what I mean High compression makes strange blobby effects around contrasting areas - it can look very "yucky".
As John rightly said, it's always best to take on *** and worry about the use later. Once shot on * it can be really difficult to remove the colour and JPG noise and artifacts introduced.
Hope that clarifies things,
Matt
*** means little compression, more detail and quality, but larger file size.
* means high compression, less detail, but smaller file size.
If you compared the images close up on the PC you should see more "artifacts" on the * setting. If you took a picture of the sky - you'd see little difference. However, take a picture of something with contrast (like some newspaper text in macro mode) and you'll see what I mean High compression makes strange blobby effects around contrasting areas - it can look very "yucky".
As John rightly said, it's always best to take on *** and worry about the use later. Once shot on * it can be really difficult to remove the colour and JPG noise and artifacts introduced.
Hope that clarifies things,
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on Quality in pentax S4 at 18/04/2004 - 20:50
George, I knew it was the bokeh (or boke if you're being ultra picky) Just didn't know what kind of comment was required - aahhh or urgh! Thanks for clarifying it Jayson
There was a really great description of bokeh I found on the 'net. The bokeh of nearfield and farfield objects are different. You can't have good nearfield bokeh and farfield - it's either one or the other.
It looks like the light is coming through the leaves, causing that ringing effect. I don't like it in this shot, but maybe in another scenario it'd look a lot better.
Depending on how you processed the image (JPG or RAW>JPG) I find you can get some strange colour effects because of the CCD of the *istD (well, that's common to all digitals). If you have Adobe Photoshop CS you can control the chromatic aberrations to minimise these effects. Lastly, I also find the sensitivity curve of CCD very different to film. Particulary in sunsets this has an effect, can't define it quite, but I can see it. Maybe there are multiple factors at work on your bokeh.
Would have been interesting too to see it at different apertures.
Matt
There was a really great description of bokeh I found on the 'net. The bokeh of nearfield and farfield objects are different. You can't have good nearfield bokeh and farfield - it's either one or the other.
It looks like the light is coming through the leaves, causing that ringing effect. I don't like it in this shot, but maybe in another scenario it'd look a lot better.
Depending on how you processed the image (JPG or RAW>JPG) I find you can get some strange colour effects because of the CCD of the *istD (well, that's common to all digitals). If you have Adobe Photoshop CS you can control the chromatic aberrations to minimise these effects. Lastly, I also find the sensitivity curve of CCD very different to film. Particulary in sunsets this has an effect, can't define it quite, but I can see it. Maybe there are multiple factors at work on your bokeh.
Would have been interesting too to see it at different apertures.
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on Bokeh anyone at 16/04/2004 - 13:30
Jayson,
What in particular did you want commenting on?
Matt
What in particular did you want commenting on?
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on Bokeh anyone at 16/04/2004 - 07:08
Richard,
I'd suggest you checkout the second hand suppliers:
www.mxv.co.uk
www.parkcameras.co.uk
www.ffordes.co.uk
www.lcegroup.co.uk
www.clocktowercameras.co.uk
They usually have a nice selection of manual focus Pentax (and compatible) lenses. You should be able to get some nice replacements. Worth mentioning that most offer 3 or 6 month guarantees and a 14 day evaluation period (though you pay postage).
Matt
I'd suggest you checkout the second hand suppliers:
www.mxv.co.uk
www.parkcameras.co.uk
www.ffordes.co.uk
www.lcegroup.co.uk
www.clocktowercameras.co.uk
They usually have a nice selection of manual focus Pentax (and compatible) lenses. You should be able to get some nice replacements. Worth mentioning that most offer 3 or 6 month guarantees and a 14 day evaluation period (though you pay postage).
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on New user, looking for advice please at 14/04/2004 - 21:10
Mark,
There's a free version of Adobe's Photoshop Album available from their site (www.adobe.com). I think that might be able to do basic resizing etc. Does a great job of organising photos though.
Alternatively, whizz over to www.irfanview.com - a really really good freeware viewer than can do resizing, sharpening and basic corrections.
You pronounce *istD as "ist-dee". It is meant to be a suffix, as in someone who specialises in something - photographist, artist, etc etc. Still a mouthful though
Matt
There's a free version of Adobe's Photoshop Album available from their site (www.adobe.com). I think that might be able to do basic resizing etc. Does a great job of organising photos though.
Alternatively, whizz over to www.irfanview.com - a really really good freeware viewer than can do resizing, sharpening and basic corrections.
You pronounce *istD as "ist-dee". It is meant to be a suffix, as in someone who specialises in something - photographist, artist, etc etc. Still a mouthful though
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on Internet galleries at 15/04/2004 - 23:02
Mark,
The Pentax User gallery is for images that were submitted for inclusion in the magazine. You don't always even get into the gallery! I submitted three shots and Peter Bargh didn't pick any of them
I have used PBase and ePhotozine (www.ephotozine.com).
Both are very good. However, PBase you have to pay for the service before you can upload ($23 minimum), and you can upload any size image. The larger the file size, the more it costs you over the year.
EPhotozine is, in my opinion, the best You get great feedback from a cool bunch of professionals and serious amateurs (and wannabes like me). But, the images must be 60k or less, 500pixels largest side, and only one per day (gives a chance for feedback).
It is always best to resize and resave before uploading. If you use Photoshop Elements, use the Image / Size option, shrink it to about 500 pixels maximum width or height. Then do Filter | Sharpen | Unsharp Mask - 100%, 0.7 radius, 4 threshold (or something like that) to give a bit of a "zing" to the image. Having done that, use the File | Save for Web option, and save as a JPEG - adjust the quality value until the right hand panel shows a size of 60k or so. Save the image as another filename (don't overwrite your original file!!). Then upload this file.
Similar methods apply in almost all editing software (Photoshop, Paint Shop Pro etc).
If you haven't already got it, Photoshop Elements 2 is a great package Worth looking out for deals at Jessops, Amazon etc.
Hope that helps
Matt
The Pentax User gallery is for images that were submitted for inclusion in the magazine. You don't always even get into the gallery! I submitted three shots and Peter Bargh didn't pick any of them
I have used PBase and ePhotozine (www.ephotozine.com).
Both are very good. However, PBase you have to pay for the service before you can upload ($23 minimum), and you can upload any size image. The larger the file size, the more it costs you over the year.
EPhotozine is, in my opinion, the best You get great feedback from a cool bunch of professionals and serious amateurs (and wannabes like me). But, the images must be 60k or less, 500pixels largest side, and only one per day (gives a chance for feedback).
It is always best to resize and resave before uploading. If you use Photoshop Elements, use the Image / Size option, shrink it to about 500 pixels maximum width or height. Then do Filter | Sharpen | Unsharp Mask - 100%, 0.7 radius, 4 threshold (or something like that) to give a bit of a "zing" to the image. Having done that, use the File | Save for Web option, and save as a JPEG - adjust the quality value until the right hand panel shows a size of 60k or so. Save the image as another filename (don't overwrite your original file!!). Then upload this file.
Similar methods apply in almost all editing software (Photoshop, Paint Shop Pro etc).
If you haven't already got it, Photoshop Elements 2 is a great package Worth looking out for deals at Jessops, Amazon etc.
Hope that helps
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on Internet galleries at 14/04/2004 - 21:07
Glad you have it sorted out Jerome!
I had started a thread on the CS205 and its pinouts way back in November (as soon as I managed to get one):
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/ftopic266.html
I know others have benefitted already. But thanks for the link you gave - just adds some extra info
Matt
I had started a thread on the CS205 and its pinouts way back in November (as soon as I managed to get one):
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/ftopic266.html
I know others have benefitted already. But thanks for the link you gave - just adds some extra info
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on Pentax *ist, how to keep the shutter open for bulk mode ? at 11/05/2004 - 07:15
Dan,
The original thread mentioned the *ist, not the *istD. I presume the *ist uses the CS205 shutter release. The CS205 can lock the shutter open. Here is a link about the pin outs for the CS205 (if you are electronically minded):
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/ftopic266.html
However, if you intend doing long exposures on the *istD, there are other issues that need to be considered, and even other methods you can use. If you do a very long exposure the semiconductor noise will be present in the image. You can correct this by doing dark frame subtraction (taking an image of the lens cap, preferably for the same exposure time) and subtracting this from the real image. Another technique is to take several shots and combine them.
The *istD has built in noise removal, which can be disabled. Which approach is best for very long exposures can only be found out with trial and error. However, there are plenty of resources on the web about digital astro photography.
Matt
The original thread mentioned the *ist, not the *istD. I presume the *ist uses the CS205 shutter release. The CS205 can lock the shutter open. Here is a link about the pin outs for the CS205 (if you are electronically minded):
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/ftopic266.html
However, if you intend doing long exposures on the *istD, there are other issues that need to be considered, and even other methods you can use. If you do a very long exposure the semiconductor noise will be present in the image. You can correct this by doing dark frame subtraction (taking an image of the lens cap, preferably for the same exposure time) and subtracting this from the real image. Another technique is to take several shots and combine them.
The *istD has built in noise removal, which can be disabled. Which approach is best for very long exposures can only be found out with trial and error. However, there are plenty of resources on the web about digital astro photography.
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on Pentax *ist, how to keep the shutter open for bulk mode ? at 01/05/2004 - 06:52
My advice to anyone with a *ist D is to hold off investing in expensive digital flash guns until a solution is forthcoming.
I bought the AF360FGZ for my Z1, and it is fantastic. Now having the *istD and the AF360FGZ I find it is the best camera/flash combination I have ever had. The features of the AF360 are really formidable.
Yes, some situations give peculiar results and this can be annoying. But then having the instant review means you at least know this straight away. IMO it is partly lens related too, and since using Pentax SMC-F primes I have had no problems at all! Tethered flash superb, wireless flash very useful, bounce and direct (with Stofen Omnibounce) beautiful.
I have never regretted the AF360FGZ, and would seriously consider another
Matt