There is (or was at least) a sign nearby that shows "< HAM SANDWICH >"
That'll be worth a shot!

Canterbury is a very historic city (30min)
Howletts zoo (tigers and apes mainly) is at Bridge near Canterbury (20min)
Dover has a lovely English Heritage run castle with war-time tunnels (less 20min)
Port Lympne (pronounce "Lim") has another Howletts branch - bigger zoo (40min)
Herne Bay is worth a visit (esp. for fish & chips) (35min)

Tons and tons of stuff to do!!
Matt

(Adjusted typo in title )

Waaa! Don't show me that kind of focus accuracy in low light on the Mk II... it won't do me any good

The price isn't interesting!
($600+)
Matt

...the K10D used to ship with plastic transparent end caps that fitted over the battery. It's a real shame there's nothing for the K-5 etc

You could make one out of Sugru by putting cling film over a battery first.

I have a number of small zip-lock style plastic bags (freezer/food/electronics - but non-conductive :shock that I put single batteries in. That keeps them dry & contacts protected

Matt

All arrived safely this morning.
Thank you Colin!
Matt

Welcome to the forum!

That gave me a good chuckle for a Monday!

Matt

I have both. The 16-45 is a fine lens - excellent for landscapes. However I find the bokeh a bit on the 'busy' side.
The DA*16-50 is, IMHO, sublime. The bokeh is lovely, and the f/2.8 is great indeed.

I would say the DA17-70 (which I had before the 16-50) is closer to the 16-50 in IQ (but f/4) - again with lovely bokeh and sharpness.

It does depend on what you mean by IQ, what your budget is, and whether you need SDM and weather sealing

Matt

The K-x has the 16 segment metering. There are, of course, logical ways to accomplish pretty decent flash with the 16-segment cameras (that's why I wrote my e-book )

But the 77 segment cameras tend to be more tolerant with flash.
Yet there are still situations where it gets it wrong It's just those situations are different to the 16 segment ones

IMO, it's still better to approach flash with knowledge and control, rather than auto-everything-and-hope! Personally I'll either lock the camera into M (exposed a stop or two below ambient) and use P-TTL, or use everything fully manual (for studio style). When you do it that way enough you can usually guess the settings within 1 stop first time

Matt

PM coming your way...

Ken,
It works a bit like this:

* Body takes ambient light reading
* Body instructs the flash to issue a low-power pre-flash
* Body uses internal light meter to read the effect of the pre-flash
* Body calculates required flash power ratio
* Body flips mirror up
* Body issues flash command (with power command)
* Body lowers mirror

So really the flash is actually just a dumb slave to the body. However, the communication between the body and flash is reasonably complex (but not overly). The comms were designed in the days of the MZ-S

The K20D and prior used a 16 segment metering
The K7 and K5 series use 77 segment metering - and that coupled with better algorithms means the body is much less likely to 'flinch' at the sight of specular flash highlights (the K20D and prior could see a highlight and consequently dial back the flash power far too much).

HTH!
Matt