...added to that the fact you can now run genuine Windows on Intel Mac with Boot Camp, or with a virtual machine utility it all looks quite enticing

Or there's Ubuntu Linux (and Win4Lin or VMWorkstation that will allow genuine Windows stuff too).

Wishing I didn't have such a lot of Microsoft-only stuff that I have to use

That said, all the XP machines I look after and use have been exceptionally stable. Mostly down to using the right apps and tools

Matt

Don,
AFAIK, the compact digicams have aperture blades in the iris and a shutter that is used to seal off the CCD (to protect it. At least my old Canon S30 did).

Don't forget they are more like video cameras - the CCD is always "exposed" so you can get the live preview.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Live-Preview_Digital_camera

(Interestingly the Canon 20Da and the 1D MkIII have Live Preview where they lock the mirror up and stream the CCD data to the LCD. Now that on a K10D would be nice!!)

Matt

Correct

Not sure about the electronics of it, but I think the "shutter speed" is simulated by dumping the charge in the CCD and reading out after the time delay.

All digicams are like this - CCD always active (that's how they get the live preview).

Matt

Answer: You can't

The reason is this: At speeds higher than the flash sync speed the shutter isn't completely open at any time -

* You press the shutter
* The leading shutter curtain starts moving
* Before the leading curtain reaches the end, the trailing curtain follows
* So the CCD (or film) is exposed as a moving strip.

(Hope I explained that clearly enough )

Consequently, when the AF540 and AF360 do HSS mode they fire continuous bursts of light to "machine-gun" the light as the hole in the shutter makes its way down the CCD.

Even if you could get other equipment to sync you'd only get a small strip of the image exposed correctly


If you want higher shutter speeds in a studio environment then you'll have to use continuous lighting rather than flash blocs

Matt

Aha! To expand on John's comment:

* If you have the focus switch to AF.C or AF.S then the camera will ONLY fire the shutter if it's in focus (this is called "snap focus"
* If you have the focus switch to M then the camera will fire anytime. Assuming you haven't changed the custom settings as I mentioned, then half pressing will engage a focus check - don't rely on the red highlight, but the green octagon at the bottom of the viewfinder. When that's lit the camera has an accurate focus.

With the *ist-D I had one lot of settings for MF lenses (AF on half press, and had to switch to M focus mode), and another for AF lenses (AF disabled).
Now I only have AF lenses, and just use the rear AF button.

It's confusing at first - but once you have the hang of it... it's blindingly quick and I rarely miss a shot

Matt

If your custom settings are the defaults then the camera needs to focus before it will take the shot.
In low light this can be hit-and-miss (for any camera, not just the K10D).

My personal setup is to set the half-press of the shutter to NOT focus, and to use the dedicated "AF" button on the back. That way the K10D will always take the shot - even if it's out of focus.

Set the custom setting "AF by Press Halfway" to "Off"

I find it incredibly useful for all kinds of photography and it's now second nature
You just have to retrain yourself to focus with the thumb, then press the shutter.

Matt

The quality is identical.

PEF can be converted to DNG using Adobe Camera Raw stand alone convertor.
PEF is smaller.

So I shoot PEF and get more on the card and HDD

Matt

Regarding the grip...
I had the *ist-D with grip and loved that, although I also like the "dainty" *ist-D alone with just a 50mm/1.4 lens
When I got the K10D it was larger than the *ist-D, and has been great without the grip.

But... after about 6 months decided to get the grip. Fabulous! It's a real "brick" (as George would say), but I find the handling absolutely superb - especially when out and about - there's plenty to grab onto. Heavier - yes, but really great!

Haven't used the K10D without the grip since I got it
(And it all fits very nicely in the Lowepro Slingshot 200 which is also a great piece of kit!)

Matt

Silkypix is at the core of the Pentax converter. There is a free edition (with limited tweaks available) and a developer edition (which isn't that much). Yes, it's stand-alone.

I'd suggest you start with Elements 5 (and possibly the Pentax converter). Get your head round it all, then when you've exhausted the options, then look at Silkypix

Elements is a fine package which should cover 99.9% of photographic needs. There are some tutorials aimed at Elements on my website

Matt

Welcome to the board

I would heartily recommend the SMC-DA 16-45.
It's more expensive than the kit lens (the 18-55), but is a superb "all-rounder". I've used it a lot for group shots and landscapes too and can say it performs most excellently

If you're going to do landscapes, then a set of Cokin P sized ND-grads would be very useful. If you only buy one ND grad, I'd recommend an ND2 (in Cokin terms it's the P121M) - I use that most of the time with the K10D. Often you can find a set of P121L, P121M, and P121S for not much more than the price of two filters The use of a grad in landscapes can make a very big difference to the overall feel of the shot.

As you get more experienced, I'd also suggest shooting RAW and using a package like Silkypix - that'll give you the most "headroom" when dealing with shots. (For kid shots the usual JPG is almost certainly adequate)

The AF540 is a fine flashgun. It's pretty large and powerful. However, I reckon you'll probably be fine with the AF360 - especially as you can use the wireless flash capabilities with the K10D. If you can stretch the budget the AF540 then do so - you never know when you might need the extra power (but if you're really stretched, the AF360, plus using a higher ISO on the camera will get you there). In fact, two AF360s make a very nice combination in wireless mode

As far as UV filters - you don't need a UV filter. Some feel it will protect your lens. However, the Pentax coatings are pretty tough and mine have taken fingers, dust and smears without any problem. Just treat the lenses with respect (I did used to use Hoya Pro UV filters, until I had two smash because of dropping the lens - the shards of fine filter glass actually did more damage than the drop I now take more care and keep the petal hood on to soften the blow if I ever drop them again! A cracked hood is cheaper than a cracked lens)

Hope that helps!
Matt