Mine is a real early AF360 (around the MZ-S era). The dial is a bit of a pain - but I think I use a fingernail rather than trying to rotate the edge.

I noticed they've changed it on the AF540 so it's easier to rotate from the side.
Matt

Using an IR filter with a digital SLR relies on the CCD's bayer matrix and filter to allow at least some IR through!

Some cameras (I've heard some Canons have the issue as well) have a heavy IR filter (or the sensor isn't sensitive to IR) so although the IR gets inside the camera it isn't recorded.

EDIT: The only other thing is the metering may not be sensitive to IR. Try it in fully manual mode, on a tripod, and just guess the shutter speed. If it's still black, use a longer shutter speed until you get something. If you get to 30s and it's still black then the CCD isn't capturing IR.

Just as well you have a Pentax then
Matt

Pete,

AF360:
* Guide number 36
* Bounce head
* P-TTL, TTL, A, M
* High speed sync (ie you can use shutter speeds above 1/180s when on camera)
* Wireless (either P-TTL or "dumb"

AF540:
* Guide number 54
* (All of the AF360 functions)
* Swivel head
* 5P connector in the side
* Battery pack connector (pack is extra)

The AF540 is more expensive because it's more powerful. That's pretty much it really apart from the little extra features.

TTL stands for Through The Lens metering.

TTL was used by the film cameras (and on the *ist-D and *ist-DS though not with the AF360 or AF540):
* Mirror lifts when you press the shutter
* Shutter opens
* Flash is fired
* Camera measures the reflected light off the film to determine when to stop the flash

P-TTL (which is used by all the DSLRs) will:
* Fires a preflash when you press the shutter
* Measures the light coming in with the exposure sensor
* Decides how much flash to use
* Mirror lifts
* Shutter opens
* Camera requests the flash to fire for the previously measured amount


Generally P-TTL gets it right, especially for outdoor high speed sync fill in flash. It can get in a muddle indoors - especially when there are reflections from the preflash (like mirrors, windows, shiny watches etc). That's why it's a good idea to shoot RAW when using P-TTL as it'll give you some extra latitude

HTH
Matt

Shame
Matt

...and I haven't been able to mess up the flash either on P-TTL.
Tried some "nasty" shots with backlighting and reflective surfaces and it seems good to me (both on camera and wireless).

It would be interesting to try the manual stop down metering as well... maybe that's been resolved too

Matt

Hmmm.
Well I click "ici" and I get "Not Found". I feel like a fish out of water...

EDIT: The link is meant to be http://www.defi-photo.com

Matt

Pete,

Some "people" advise...

Get them to fill out a list of "Can't miss" shots with location, people, poses.
This list is your life-line. Print it out and carry it with you and check them off (at least in your mind) as you go.

I'd stick with the 18-55 for 90% of the shots. (I use the 16-45 as I have it).

I do use flash for fill in. AF540 (but the AF360 will be perfectly fine on camera). I have a modified Pentax flash bracket for it, but the wireless is helpful. If you can help it - don't use flash inside as it spoils the "atmosphere" of the shot. But be prepared for high ISO shots, with a monopod or resting on something.

Use Auto ISO, and Av mode, aperture at something like f8 for most group shots.

Oh yes, and shoot RAW. Shoot RAW. Shoot RAW. Have plenty of cards too!

As has been said, be absolutely familiar with your gear. On the day you can't afford to think about it.

EDIT: you'll find the 50/1.7 useful inside 2 cards should be fine in PEF mode, unless you're a mad shooter!

EDIT: When taking shots you must tell yourself to check what's in the viewfinder. Check the feet and dress, check the heads, check the background.

Get people to leave their bags with someone while in the shot.
Encourage people not to put their hands on others' shoulders and round waists - you'll get "ghost hands" otherwise

Matt

I knew that... and saying it doesn't make me feel any better I told myself that the SMC-F 50mm f1.4 would have to suffice

...that and maybe the SMC-DA* 16-50/2.8
Matt

MXV had an FA85/1.4 a couple of weeks ago.
I had a terrible LBA urge to go and see it...
Aaaaaaaargh - what a strain - managed to resist the urge
Matt

Normally I ETTR (Expose To The Right) and try and ensure I don't blow out the highlights but get them as far to the right as possible.

Normally, half the CCD data is in the top 1-stop. But I think Pentax have made their CCD slightly non-linear (more film like) with the 22-bit ADC etc.

It's a shame there isn't a "real RAW" - ie all 22-bits that could be processed. You'd get unbelievable latitude with that (even if only 16 to 18 bits were actually useful)

Matt