It's only a debate for those who can't handle the RAW workflow (for one reason or another... reasons which are diminishing daily!)

For those that use RAW, there is no debate and no question

(BTW, DNG is not necessary. Shoot PEF on the K10D. You can convert to DNG if you absolutely have to use Adobe's stand alone DNG converter. All the major RAW apps handle the K10D PEF format now.... it's smaller than the DNG )
Matt

Golfdiesel,
As I see it you have these options:
1) Get the P-sized filters. The holders and rings are pretty cheap. www.srbfilm.co.uk have good stocks of it all.

2) If you anticipate getting a 12-24 in the future, then go for the Lee Foundation holder plus a set of Cokin Z-Pro.

3) If you have money to burn, just go 100% Lee

I did use option (1) with the 12-24 - just hacked the front of a Cokin plastic holder and it only vignettes slightly. Option 1 is a better approach if you want to use a polariser - the 105mm polariser alone will cost you at least €150 (and then there's the adapter ring which is more expense still).

Having used both, I really do prefer the Lee sized stuff - especially on landscapes. But the P was pretty good (And I still got some top drawer shots with them!)

Matt

One Cokin Z-Pro is usually enough to bring the dynamic range in check - especially with the K10D. I don't have any perceivable tint problems with a single Cokin Z-Pro. (I did hear that the Cokin's were better at rendering blue skies, whereas the Lees are better for moody grey skies. Of course the Lees are fully twice the price of the Cokin's :shock

If that's not enough I've been using HDR techniques to get the extra range (with Silkypix+Artizen+Photoshop).

Best place for filter sets is www.speedgraphic.co.uk - set of three ND grads for £66. I also bought the Lee 3 filter holder which is very well made. My only gripe was I managed to slip two Cokins into one bay (in a hurry) and marked them both

Matt

Sorry to burst the bubble...
Both Cokin P and Hitech filters have a red/magenta "tinge" to them. It's most noticeable when you stack two of them together.
The Cokin Z-Pro are better, but the tinge is there still (not a great deal though).

AFAIK, the Lees are the only ones that don't

It's not difficult to correct for in digital, and sometimes (I might add) the tinge is quite welcome - adds a slight autumnal feel

Matt

We knew that
It's just that Pentax's SR technology is the same in the K100D and the K10D.
And it is the CCD on its plate.
Absolutely. Ever had an old hard disk apart? Tried the magnets? Scarily strong. The SR technology uses a similar voice coil to hard disks, and presumably similar magnets.

But, all the same, it'll be interesting to hear Pentax's reply
Matt

Here's an image of the bit that's moving:
http://a.img-dpreview.com/reviews/PentaxK10D/Images/Features/sr.jpg

The whole plate with the CCD has to move under magnet control. When the power is off and the magnets aren't engaged that plate can move on its own... well, when you turn the camera upside down at least

Matt

Chris at SRS Microsystems is getting some of these in... don't know the price though.
Matt

On the K10D I have it set so that ISO is shown, and can be controlled by the front dial in Av mode. In the viewfinder I see aperture, shutter speed and ISO rating. Can't think what else could be displayed?

(And if I want to see how many shots are left to go, I just hold down the OK button)

True, true But Pete would be well advised to become as familiar as possible before the event - then it'll go really well

Matt

You could if you had time Pete's talking about a wedding here
Matt

Don't EVER rely on Photoshop
Cutting out a wedding dress with hair and flowers is a right royal pain. You don't want to be doing it... and to be honest, Pete, you need a LOT more PP experience before attempting that

Isolating the subject depends on a few things:
1) How far they are from a background
2) The focal length you use
3) The aperture you use

The longer the focal length, the more isolation you get from DOF, but the more "compression" you get from the narrowed angle of view.
The wider the aperture (ie small f-number) the narrower the DOF at a given focal length.

So, f/5 at 200mm is a lot narrower than f/5 at 18mm

As Don rightly says, you've got to know your kit and know what to do to get a shot so that it's second nature. When you shoot a wedding you have absolutely no time to think about anything!!!
It's blam, blam, blam, blam all the way from the start until the end. Exhausting!

So, get out and try things out BEFORE the day. Shoot a few hundred shots so you feel comfortable knowing what you're doing. (Ignore this advice at your peril )

Matt