MattMatic

Joined: 2nd July 2002

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MattMatic
Graham,
I tend to switch image modes with the "F" key (there are three modes, BTW - "Normal", "Full screen Black", and "Full screen Grey".

In full screen mode it's helpful to hold the space bar down and click and drag to move the workspace. This mode is great for when you're using lasso and pen tools right to the image edge

Also, pressing Ctrl-0 (zero) will resize the image to fit the screen. When there's the "bar" above the image ("Normal mode" this will automatically fit the image around the tools laid out.

BTW, Ctrl-Shift-0 (zero) will show at 100%. I use these shortcuts all the time!

Hope that helps
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on re PS CS at 12/10/2007 - 12:17

MattMatic

Comment by MattMatic posted on Help wanted please. at 10/10/2007 - 19:58

MattMatic
For me it'd probably be:
"Which ND grad shall I use, and should I run back to the car to fetch the tripod for an HDR shot?"
(And that'd be the last time I did that too! LOL!)
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on ...and another reason why not to buy CANNON..... at 10/10/2007 - 16:01

MattMatic
Simon,
Out of interest... presumably you're selling all your Pentax gear. What have you switched to?
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on K10D and SMC-A lenses for sale at 12/10/2007 - 08:22

MattMatic
This feature is built into Capture One. You can switch to straight B&W with a single keypress. I found it helpful - definitely. I'd switch to B&W and adjust, then back to colour and do a final tweak. (Very useful to "filter out" all the colour info and visualise an image)

Silkypix has a "Monochrome" colour setting... but it's not nearly as quick as Capture One. Shame.

In Photoshop you can add a ten-step gradient adjustment layer which helps see the image in "zones". (See my B&W tutorials on my web site) This is very, very helpful in seeing where the detail is. (Similar thing to LightZone, which I also rather like!) Here: http://www.ephotozine.com/article/Converting-colour-to-black-amp-white-using-the...
(Look at the bottom under "Maximising Tonal Range" )

Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on tip for aperture/lightroom users... at 09/10/2007 - 16:15

MattMatic
Cards are so cheap now... but even when they were expensive I cycled two cards. One card is blank and always in the camera.
When full, I remove it, put in the second card and format it.
Take full card to PC and download.

(It also extends the time you've got to recover an image from the card - if you format the card when you initially put in the camera).
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on Shutter release on K10D at 09/10/2007 - 15:37

MattMatic
Quote:
going to try iview media pro3, i'll let you know how it goes
Have fun... it's Microsoft owned
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on Photo Catalogue Software at 09/10/2007 - 09:24

MattMatic
Peter,
The topic was covered in this thread:
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5640

Picasa is a free place to start (uses keywords in the IPTC area)
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on Photo Catalogue Software at 09/10/2007 - 06:22

MattMatic
Moderators only

Sorted for you
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on how to make a STICKY at 08/10/2007 - 15:09

MattMatic
Quote:
...or block off the contacts.
Or, as I mentioned, mount the flash on a bracket with a PC connector.
Such as: this bracket and cable and this bracket
(But you can often find these lying around camera shops!)

Forgot to mention as well - you also must observe the distance chart on the flash gun and make sure you're within range - otherwise the flash will have little effect. If you bounce the flash then the distance will be flash-to-ceiling-to-subject (and not camera-to-subject)

Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on Fill-in flash with a non TTL body (ME Super) at 11/10/2007 - 08:35

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