Correct. That's why I suggested ISO 100 and a slower shutter speed
(There was a reason)


You have to remember that the burst of flash is ultra fast - 1/10000 second or faster. Basically the flash exposure is 100% down to the aperture.
So, to reduce the flash exposure you only have a few things you can do:
1) Use a smaller aperture (so less flash gets in the lens)
2) Lower the power of the flash (even putting a couple of folds of tissue paper over the flash will reduce its power... but not with "A" mode on the flash! This will work with "M" mode)
3) Put the flash further away than the camera (not usually practical!)


Correct. The flash has only TWO power modes.

Did you try fully MANUAL mode on the camera???

Well, at the worst, you only need to buy a flash bracket (about £10 new) and a hot shoe - to PC connector (around £6). I reckon if you pop along to your local small camera shop they'll have a bargain bucket with old stuff like that.

Once you use the PC connector the camera has absolutely no idea the flash is connected
BUT - you will have to remember NOT to use a shutter speed higher than 1/125 otherwise you'll get half the frame with flash and half without (for reasons that I'm not going to go into here!)


As I said, best thing is to trust me on this - use ISO100 (or ISO160 Fuji NPS) and take a test roll of film before the real thing

Matt

Phew!
(Had to check a few manuals)

The 1/125 limitation may be relaxed when in the "M" mode on the camera. If you set a slower speed then the camera may not force it to 1/125.

If that doesn't work, you'll have to connect the flash to a bracket and link to the "PC" connector on the side of ME-Super - that'll remove the dedication.

So, assuming that works...
The general rule is to set the aperture at least one stop smaller than the flash and sort out the shutter speed after.

So (assuming ISO100 film), if the flash says f/2.8 you set f/4 on the camera and sort out the shutter speed (indoors that would be 1/15s)

Outdoors, the flash says f/5.6 and you set either f/8 or f/11. That should give a shutter speed of 1/125 or 1/60s for ambient.

Sorted

(It was a pain doing all the mental workings from ISO400 so I hope that's correct!!)

In practice:
* Turn off the flash
* Set "M" mode
* Set the aperture to one or two smaller than the flash
* Adjust the shutter speed (if not acceptable, change the flash auto power and change the aperture on camera)
* Now power up the flash

The flash should therefore be one or two stops under powered compared to ambient light.

Any clearer???

Matt

First off, don't use ISO 400
It's too fast for outdoors.

So, let's assume (like we suggested) you use ISO 100.
That's a two stop slower speed:
Indoors: f/2.8 + 1/30, (or f/2 + 1/60)
Outdoors: f/8 + 1/125, (or f/16 + 1/60)

You need to still set the flash to the same ISO rating.
Perhaps you could tell us the f-stops for ISO 100 and ISO 400 - and I'll tell you what to do

Matt

All kinds . Metz, Cobra, Pentax on the ME-Super, ME-F, MZ5, and Z1. (But now digital.)

As mentioned, it's not that difficult. Program mode is fine - as long as it's not faster than 1/125 second. It would be good if you could run a test film through before the day

(I always used Fuji NPS for weddings ISO 160)
Matt

When I did fill in on an MEF (same as MESuper) I did the following:

* Set flash to "A" and read off the f-stop from the flash (e.g. f/5.6)
* Set the camera to at least one stop smaller (so, between f/8 and f/11)
* Ensure the ambient light at that aperture was 1/125 or less

Perfect every time

(The main thing to remember is that the flash doesn't care about the shutter speed - as long as it's <= 1/125s. Changing the shutter speed makes no difference to the flash exposure, only the ambient exposure.)

Remember:
* Adjusting the aperture affects the flash exposure
* Once set, you can adjust the shutter speed to control the ambient exposure.

Matt

Any bright spots in the background will be rendered as out-of-focus highlights. In the case of the A 100mm (non macro) it has 6 aperture blades. That's why they're hexagons If you shoot wide open then they'll be circles.
To me, it looks fine - it has the characteristic buttery bokeh of Pentax lenses and those bright "halos" can be used to your advantage too

And yes, each lens has slightly different rendering. It's all a personal thing

If you don't want them you have to reposition, or diffuse the light in the background.
Matt

Well, just go for the SMC-FA 50/1.4 then
Not much more than the KatzEye either! If you intend to get the DA* lens, or the Ltds, then just go for the AF.
I have to rely on the AF as my eyes are pretty bad. Had an SMC-A 50/1.4 for a while - which was absolutely beautiful to use - but my focus hit-rate was pretty poor (that was on the *ist-D). Have shot a few events with just the SMC-F 50/1.4 on the *ist-D, *ist-DS and K10D and it's a great lens, especially shooting around f/2.4

But that's all just my opinion!
Matt

PS. If you do decide to go for one, give Chris a ring at SRS Microsystems

The trick with moving kids is to:
1) disable the bleep option
2) switch to centre focus point only
3) optionally turn off the focus-when-half-pressed and use the AF button (or OK on the *ist-D/K100?) to do the focus

When you have auto focus across all points in low light the camera will often hunt around and get the wrong point - by which time you've missed the moment.
But you do have to retrain yourself a little

I have also found the 18-55 on the *ist-DS to be pretty slow focussing in low light. The 50mm/1.4 has no problems, and nor does the K10D. The 16-45mm lens also has little problem... maybe it's partly the 18-55 (must do some more scientific tests).

But, as George said, the main thing with portraiture is the lighting. Did I mention that the lighting is also important?

That takes LOTS of practise and time. And I don't mean expensive studio lights either. Learn to use reflectors and available light

Matt

You did have such a wonderful sky there didn't you?

LOL!
Pretty much got the hang of FluidMask (awesome, awesome product) and I'm starting on a creative roll Watch this space...
Matt

And a quick Photoshop cheat (with a little Fluid Mask - still practicing with this!)




Matt