Normally you hold down the MENU button while powering up the camera.
Matt

Your camera, as you said, has version 1.00. Therefore that statement is perfectly correct

(They say that, because if there was ever a 1.40 you can't downgrade to 1.30 ... at least not normally!)

Just go ahead and put 1.30 straight in and enjoy

Matt

Or, as suggested on the web, put the image at an angle on the scanner

Or, again, as Katrin Eismann suggests in one of her books (particularly for scratched images) - try scanning at 0 degrees, then rotate 90 degrees and scan again. It's likely that the scratches will look different in each scan and you can combine the two scans

And finally.... in the realm of bringing back old images - anything's worth a go!!
Matt

Here are some Google'd links:
http://macgroup.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/320604742/m/1691050362
http://www.descreen.net/eng/soft/descreen/descreen.htm (see above post though)

http://answers.google.com/answers/main?cmd=threadview&id=224671
http://hardware.mcse.ms/archive47-2005-11-48294.html

Have fun
Matt

Erm... you still end up with the half-toning
(Just the same as scanning!)
Matt

Some scanners have a "Descreen" option.

There are (fiddly) ways around it in Photoshop - basically you are trying to turn a half-toned image into a greyscale one. The photocopy process can only deposit one colour - solid black. It gets the appearance of grey by spattering the solid dots into a random half-tone. (Newspapers and magazines use a regular half-tone process - usually in little rose shape arrangements of dots).

Any descreening process is a balancing act of smoothing vs retaining detail. You will probably find that a good noise reduction software (like NeatImage) will do a good job of descreening...

HTH!
Matt

Very well done! Excellent prize too
(They don't have a jealous-green emoticon! LOL! )
Matt

Whoops
Just re-read the thread... my must brain in muddle be
Matt

I beg to differ

The AF360 connected on a 4P link will behave exactly like any other 4P flash gun. I've even used the AF360 on the *ist-D in TTL mode using a 4P link.

That said, if the AF360 has been previously used on a K10D (for example) the it will be "stuck" in P-TTL mode until it talks to a TTL only body (like an MZ10 etc). This may be the only sticking point when connecting onto a really old body that supports TTL only.

You only have to push the Mode button on the AF360... if you only get P-TTL then you have to "retrain" it on a body. If you get "TTL" as one of the modes then everything should be just fine and dandy

So, if the MF 645 supports TTL then I would say it will work with the AF360 and AF540.

Don't you just love Pentax compatibility!!
Matt

To add to this... the AF360FGZ worked perfectly in TTL mode on the Z1 I had (my AF360 was one of the very early ones).

The AF360 and AF540 will determine the camera capabilities when connected. If the body only supports normal TTL then it'll do just that. For all the digital bodies it will use P-TTL only.

Matt