MattMatic

Joined: 2nd July 2002

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MattMatic
Quote:
The K20D doesn't have a seperate liveview sensor or does it?
No. Pentax said live view became possible because of the lower power consumption of the CMOS sensor. (There are probably other factors too though).
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on Wake up Pentax/Samsung!!! at 10/06/2008 - 08:51

MattMatic
Quote:
Can this be because it is a JPEG image to start with? There are a number of options not available for JPEG processing in Silkypix.
Ah! Almost certainly
I'm only referring to RAW image conversion...

Yes, with a JPG, NeatImage is a formidable tool, and worth the money. It's just, as I said, in practice I find I can't remember the last time I used NeatImage...

Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on Noise removal at 10/06/2008 - 08:50

MattMatic
Quote:
Matt, can you (or others) please describe how you have achieved your best results with Silkypix's NR?
The manual contains the information (albeit in Japlish). Section 10.1.8 - "Creating Extremely Clear Image".

There is no "one slider does it all" with SP - it's a case of learning how to guide the multiple options (which may be too daunting to some).

The thing is, the noise removal of NI and SP use different techniques. NI tackles noise using an FFT (think graphic equaliser of hifi). SP effectively has access to more information - it's working at the RAW level directly. Because of the differences, your best solution would probably be a combination of both

However, as I said, even for ISO6400 "pushed" images, I find that SP does a perfectly good job of reducing the noise while retaining detail.

One project for a rainy day would be to create a set of "tastes" for SP that cover the K10D at various ISO settings...

Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on Noise removal at 10/06/2008 - 06:40

MattMatic
Quote:

Otherwise Silkypix's NR is not great, IMO.
You ain't usin' it right
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on Noise removal at 09/06/2008 - 17:53

MattMatic
George,
I used to use NeatImage... now I find that SP does what I need. If you pushed NI too far you end up with a plastic-wrap look. There may still be some noise left after SP, but it's very film-like.

And I regularly use ISO1600, and even "push" processed ISO3200 and 6400 And still stick with just SP's nr... but maybe it'd be better with SP+NeatImage... I don't know!

Maybe I should upgrade and retest NeatImage... if I have time
Sorry I can't help much more!
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on Noise removal at 09/06/2008 - 15:35

MattMatic
When I need proper colour correction I use a QPcard ( www.qpcard.com ). Cheap, portable and good.
Generally for WB I make use of an Expodisc - which is also excellent, but expensive

Other than that... I use Silkypix's Skin Tone colour correction and that works 90% of the time

Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on Grey Card at 06/06/2008 - 12:05

MattMatic
Hi Jim,
Both SP and C1 are capable packages and I have used both extensively.

However, I find that Silkypix Developer Studio gives consistently better detail and colour - especially with high ISO images (which I use a lot). So, it's Silkypix for me.

However, before you shell out $150, try the free version - it may do all that you need Added to that, Capture One comes with many Sandisk Extreme cards for free (or at least it did).

My advice - try both and stick with the one that gives results for you.

Hope that helps!
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on help from MattMatic at 05/06/2008 - 11:50

MattMatic
It's one stop faster. That's all!
It you actually shoot at f/2.8 because you need to, then you have to have absolutely razor sharp focus. When I use the 50mm f/1.4 and shoot at around f/2.4 I have to check and double check the focus - and my dud rate is higher too!

In the DSLR world, and especially with the K10D, you crank up the ISO a little to accommodate low light venues and use an f/4 lens without much of a problem. (As you have the K10D, reassign the front wheel to ISO when in the Av mode - instant change of ISO and Av. Works every time!)

At least that's what I do all the time! And I use the SMC-FA 24-90 f/3.5-4.5.

There is always the idea that faster = better (and I fell into this category when I started). Compromises have to be made to get a faster lens, and you can often be better off with a slower, but better quality lens. That's the reason the 24-90 I have RRP'd at £449 It's a superb lens... just not that fast.

Hope that helps!
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on Tamron 28-75mm f2.8 Di SP AF Lens at 05/06/2008 - 16:16

MattMatic
Well I've ended up with the old SMC-FA 24-90 - and that's been just about perfect
The 17-70 is still attractive as a replacement to give the wide angle end. But it will have to be at least as good as the 24-90, if not better, for me to fork out that kind of money.

That said, the SMC-FA 24-90 RRP was £449, IIRC, so that's pretty much the same.
(The kit of 12-24 & 24-90 is pretty much my standard kit now. Hugely capable )
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on PENTAX Introduces smc DA 17-70mm f/4 AL [IF] SDM Lens at 05/06/2008 - 09:15

MattMatic
Can anyone tell me how many aperture blades the 55-300 has? The 80-320 has 8 and has a lovely OOF rendition.
Bojidar's page doesn't list it (he might need emailing too!)

Thanks!
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on new 55-300mm whats the verdict at 04/06/2008 - 06:46

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