Absolutely not. It will only use the complete flash power if the ambient light is so low in relation to the aperture/ISO/shutter speed.

The advantage of "M" mode on the camera is that you can still measure the ambient lighting. The Av mode will try and balance everything for you. When you use "M", and adjust the shutter speed so that it shows around 1 stop under exposure, then the flash has little to do and will only expend a small amount of energy

In fact, if you are doing this inside and out (such as at a wedding), then set the AF540/360 to "HS" mode and you will be able to select higher shutter speeds for outdoors - still the same rule applies - meter for about 1 stop underexposure and the flash will do the rest.

Maybe it sounds counter-intuitive, but it works a treat!

Yes, you can use "M" and "A" on the flash gun - but the P-TTL mode should give you more accurate results... unless the situation is absolutely constant (like studio setups). As I said, if you are doing portraiture, then everything manual is by far the easiest and most consistent.

If you give me a bit more info about what you are shooting, and what you want to achieve, then I could give some more ideas!
Matt

Hi Nathan,
The BEST way to get absolute control is as follows:
* Put the camera in "M" mode
* Put the Flash in P-TTL
* I set the aperture, press the Green Button to get the correct shutter speed
* Then increase the shutter speed until the metering shows around 1 stop under (ie -1Ev)
* Shoot

If the shutter speed is too low, hold down the OK button and adjust the ISO.
I've also been experimenting using a home made bounce card (out of a piece of white "Funky Foam" - as illustrated on www.abetterbouncecard.com The combination of bounce, reflected light & the M+P-TTL makes a great shot!


Other modes I've used are: Av with ISO mapped to the front wheel. You need to set the Av & ISO without the flashgun on first - to get a feel for the ambient light. Then lower the ISO by a stop or so and use P-TTL flash.

If it's portraiture, then I use M on camera, and M on flash (set at 1/8 as a starting point).

There's more info on the sticky post about P-TTL flash
Hope that helps!
Matt

Just an added thought -

Good NiMH AA batteries will give a faster recycle time. Freshly charged From memory, Hybrio batteries in my AF540 recycle in about 4 seconds.

But... and here's the warning... if you are fully discharging the flash on every shot, then you're asking for trouble! If you run anything at the limit, how do you know whether it actually needed more power for the shot? Of course, you don't, and you risk underexposure!

The AF540 is a fine piece of kit - better than the AF360 - and I have absolutely no problems or issues with it at all (But then I always balance ISO/Aperture and sometimes shutter speed to ensure I'm well under a full discharge).

Matt

I stand corrected

Excellent news then...
Thanks!
Matt

My guess is that the TR3 supplies low voltage to the flash - otherwise the recharge time could be a lot shorter
.
It also explains why when using both sets of batteries the recycle time should be lower - it's putting them in parallel so more current can be drawn. I would suspect it would halve the time.

Given the safety issues of have HV on a small connector, and the difficulties of getting worldwide safety approval, I wouldn't be at all surprised if that's why they chose a LV route

Matt

AFAIK, the external AF540 power pack houses a set of C-size cells to give longer life... not faster recharge

Running at full power all the time isn't good. Can you crank the ISO higher and effectively increase the guide number? (That's what I do all the time!)

Matt

Love it!
We're a family of Lego addicts... that's got a few brain cells whirring... LOL!
Matt

The AF540 can cope with fast shooting... as long as you don't need the whole whack.

But then any flash (even my hulking great Metz 50MZ) will take an age to recharge if you discharge the whole thing. Some flash external packs provide high voltage input (think the Metz do) so you can have near instantaneous recharge. But, boy, the kit is flipping heavy!

I've done a few events with the AF540 and it's been just perfect (With the AF360 on wireless for fill in).

If the event requires a lot of light, then you may be better off with an AF540 on the camera, and one or two AF360's on wireless providing room lighting Failing that, an Elinchrom kit would be better still. Just a thought...

Matt

My (current) favourite kit set is:

K10D (no grip)
SMC-DA 12-24
SMC-FA 24-90
SMC-F 50/1.4
(Plus an AF540-FGZ and Manfrotto carbon fibre 444 + 460 head)

And that covers pretty well all my photographic needs The bokeh, colour, and rendition of each lens is sublime. All fits very nicely into the Lowepro 200AW.

And like George... I still have the *ist-D... somehow I get on with it more than the K10D (though the K10D image quality is great). At the moment my second son makes use of it when we're out.

Trying to learn to live without LBA and just be satisfied with what I have

Matt

I went with Aaduki insurance. Very helpful - and they can do public liability insurance too at a reasonable price for photogs.
Quite high excess, but relatively low premiums.
Matt