Huh? It's only SRS that seems to stock any Pentax over here

[pathetic mode]
Oh no! I suppose I better ebay my Pentax stuff and get a Nikon before I can't take any more pictures with my Pentax.
[/pathetic mode]


Matt

It aids readability if you put a space after each command and full stop
(ie. Portraits, Wedding, Events)
Looks nice

I've had a Photium site for quite a while... and have sold zippo, nada, zero through it Everyone and their dog are advertising themselves as photographers, and how can someone tell what separates them all??
Punters like to see images for real ...and the website is helpful for those that have already got one or two of your images.

The only success I've had is by taking some mounted, packaged prints to small events and selling them there Only there can they see how well you really can take/print/present

Matt

Have you taken out the SD card, and deleted the firmware file off the card?
Matt

How to use the AF160:
1) Set camera to Av
2) Set camera to a _fixed_ ISO rating. Essential!! Don't have sensitivity correction or auto ISO enabled!
3) Set the AF160 to either Green or Red (little wheel on side)
4) Use the chart on the back of the AF160 to work out which aperture to use
5) Set that on camera.

Job done
You should have great results

(The auto-ISO is usually the killer for Auto flashguns. The camera ups the ISO without being able to tell the flash and you get massively overexposed images.)
Matt

EDIT: Histogram Repairer

As they mention, if you use 16-bit images (ie processed from RAW to 16-bit TIFF) then you don't need to repair the histogram.

This might be worth a read... though take with a pinch of salt. Some gaps are fine - until you can see the posterization in the final image (And the add-noise technique is normally just fine).

Matt

Excellent result Daniel!
Thanks for sharing
Matt

As stated, Silkypix isn't the "problem" - it's pushing an image too far You'll get that whatever raw converter you use.
Pete is correct - do as much as you can in the RAW software. If you have an area that need significant work apart from the main image then process twice in SP - adjusting the settings for each area. Then blend the two images in Photoshop.

Once I did see a histogram smoother plugin... can't remember where though!!

A quick tip though... if the banding become apparent then adding some noise to that area often helps break up the banding. Most controlled way is: 1) add a new layer, 2) fill with grey, 3) add noise, 4) change layer blend mode to "Luminosity", 5) Add a layer mask as needed.

HTH!
Matt

PS. Here's a sample of the two-step-processing approach.

Are you sure the lens is mounted correctly?
Sometimes the focus screw doesn't engage correctly and you get that kind of effect - the camera's trying to focus and can't
Matt

Result:

Mike,
There's not a huge amount that can be done about it... other than tone it down (a lot!).

Here's my quick take in Photoshop/Elements:
1. Add a new layer
2. Change the layer blend mode from "Normal" to "Color"
3. Pick a small soft brush. Opacity around 50%
4. Hold the Alt key down and click on the blue sky next to the bright blue fringing.
5. Now paint over the bright blue and it'll tone down

For areas near the leaves, you may find that a shade of green works better.
Took me about one minute to do the job

Hope that makes sense!
Matt