Yeah, I'm puzzled too. I've worked with: K10D, K20D, Canon 20D and 30D RAW files and find the following (in real life):
K10D produces better results than either Canon
K20D produces better results than all three... and especially at higher ISO. The DxO results look really odd! DPReview cited at least 1 extra stop of dynamic range in the K20D over the K10D... and that seems to be what I've found.

Checking the DxO results it looks like I should ditch my gear and go for a Canon 5D or Nikon D700

Read into it what you will
Matt

Mac,
I'd suggest going with Photoshop Elements.
Even version Elements 2 will do most of what you'll need.
Version 3 is also nice.

Elements is *much* easier to use than Photoshop... but both packages work in a similar way so you're better placed to migrate up to full Photoshop when you need to

Matt

Note: If you want to shoot RAW you can always use the supplied Pentax Photo Lab software (which is free). Also you could use Silkypix Free Edition. Both will give JPG/TIFF output that you can then do post-production with whatever editor takes your fancy

Matt

Just another thought...

This is a behaviour I have had with the *ist-D (which uses AA cells) - sometimes the camera thinks the batteries are Alkaline (because the cell voltage is higher than expected).
Typically they'll run for a while then show "no battery" very quickly.

Turning off the camera and then back on seems to solve the problem.


If it's not that, then it'll be down to a failed cell.

And finally...
Recently I've been using the Hybrio / Eneloop type NiMH cells because they have a MUCH longer shelf life. Regular NiMH will flatten themselves in a couple of weeks (you don't have to do anything at all!). It's a real pain when you fully charge regular AA NiMH, come to use them a couple of weeks' later and find there's pretty well no charge left
The Hybrio/Eneloop have a shelf life of at least 6 months

Matt

For each lighting set up, take one shot with the QPcard right in the main frame - you use that as a reference for the other shots (that don't have the QPcard).
If you shoot RAW, you can use the Black/Grey/White QPcard to set your white point, black point and white balance. If you have the colour QPcard you can use their software to adjust even a JPG and get proper white balance (You capture the reference image and then apply the profile to all other shots taken at the same time)
Definitely a very useful tool
Matt

Pay attention to the white balance

I would shoot RAW to allow greater flexibility afterwards.
Preferably include a QPcard in a shot or two to give a reference.

Have a search on www.ephotozine.tv as well.
Matt

The flash you have isn't really up to that much - especially if you cannot position it off camera.
If you have a good sized window with a net curtain (to soften and diffuse the light) you can get away with natural light... assuming it's not damp and horrible weather

Get yourself a cheap sheet - dark blue is the school photo colour - and hang it from the ceiling at 45 degrees to the window. Hold the reflector just out of shot - hold it so it lights the opposite side, pointing slightly up towards their chin.

Shoot with the 50mm at somewhere between f/3.2 and f/5.6

Just experiment until you get something that works. You don't need to spend much at all - just improvise. Even use sheets of white packing foam for reflectors. Just use anything

Here's some examples:
Window light (non diffused)
Using the "reflector" without a cover as a diffuser in sunlight
Window light with some Photoshopping

With a remote triggered AF540+brolly and AF360 flash, backdrop

Have fun
Matt

It depends what type of portraits your better half wants
If it's "school photo" type ones... that requires setting up a little bit of kit (preferably off-camera flash), reflector, backdrop etc.

If it's a more relaxed type of individual shot then this is my tuppence worth:
* Use the 50mm
* Position them facing a large window (at about 45 degrees to the window)
* Use the reflector on white to bounce back some light onto the darker side of the face
* Keep them well enough away from stuff behind - preferably hang a sheet behind

Above all, have fun

You might find it easier to practice first with your other half to get a feel for things, then do the kids when you're more confident (they'll get bored quickly!).

Matt

Knew that already ... hence my comment:
Personally I have a very, very high hit rate with centre point focussing - but then I'm probably slightly adjusting the camera position slightly (not using a tripod). Maybe I'm working out Pythagoras/SohCahToa in my subconscious?

Certainly for tripod studio work I'd use selective focus points always
Matt

The K20D is exactly the same as the K10D in focussing. You can select any of the individual focus points - use the large dial on the back
Personally I use centre-only focus and reframe before shooting (as long as the subject isn't too close)
Matt