Not sureabout the 32MZ-3 - it's probably a TTL flash and not P-TTL. Consequently you can use "A" mode and "M" mode on the flash - which means you need to:
1) Fix your ISO on the camera (not auto ISO)
2) Use Av mode to fix the aperture

(My flash guide e-book should help )
Matt

Ron,
I've just Google'd for you: Have a look at "QuickGamma" for Windows:
http://www.normankoren.com/makingfineprints1A.html#QuickGamma
and http://quickgamma.de/indexen.html
and the test chart: http://www.normankoren.com/makingfineprints1A.html#Monitor_test_pattern

Hope that helps!
Matt

Ron,
PM me your email address (or email me) and I'll forward you the WiziWyg for Windows XP (may have the Mac version too if needed).
A Huey costs around £65 (which isn't bad, TBH), but WiziWyg is going to be better than nowt

With any colour management you MUST start with your monitor first
(There may still be issues with the printer driver though too, but usually it's the monitor first!)
Other possibility is to borrow a Huey/Spyder etc from a friend etc and calibrate your monitor.
Matt

Yes, Praxisoft (and WiziWyg) have disappeared.

Still, these days you are much better off getting something like a Huey - they really are very affordable these days! (When I wrote the original post, the cheapest colorimiter was about £200, IIRC.)

It'd be a good idea to get any of the devices listed here: http://www.argyllcms.com/doc/ArgyllDoc.html
(That way you can always use ArgyllCMS software - which is rather good).
Matt

It would be a mistake to just evaluate sharpness when considering a lens
There are other factors (some that are especially important in super wides like the 12-24).

The 12-24 is an excellent lens, and I wouldn't part with mine
Colour and flare handling is stunning. e.g. http://www.ephotozine.com/u16488/gallery/1026108
(BTW this looks absolutely fab at 18"x12" - and very, very sharp )

Mine suffered a knock some while back (the hood took most of the impact and cracked), and I've been wondering whether it could do with a bit of TLC & a service since then... (but that was long before the above shot!)

Matt

Hmmmm... shooting wide open isn't the best way to judge the sharpness of any lens
You really want to test around f/8 at least, and check both the centre and the edges (not just the edge as you've shown) since there can be differences in sharpness according to region.

I've had both very sharp and disappointing shots from the 12-24... and some of those cases were down to focus error (which I corrected in the K20D custom menu). Additionally, I wonder if it's best to turn off SR when using the 12-24 - as at this wide angle shake is hardly a problem

HTH!
Matt

Oh no you can't

The internal pop up flash only does P-TTL... consequently the slaved flash will trigger on the preflash and have nothing for the main flash
Only if you get a "digital aware" slave cube that has a selectable ignore flash option

Matt

Paul,
Adding to the above comment... "TTL" flash guns are readily available. HOWEVER, they will only work on two old Pentax dSLRs - the *ist-D & *ist-Ds.

If you want the camera and flash to work things out on their own, then the flash must be P-TTL!

However... if you are doing occasional flash work, or studio style work, then _any_ flash gun that has "A" and "M" modes can also work! (For example, I have been using the Metz 50MZ5 in "A" and "M" mode on the K10D & K20D with excellent results) It's a slightly different approach - but not difficult

Consequently you can use the older Pentax flash guns (AF500FTZ etc) - but just in "A" and "M" mode on the flash gun.

(Note: "A" mode is where the flash gun works out the light level needed with a "magic eye", and "M" mode is where you control the amount of light from the flash manually. It's not that difficult to do, and having digital preview on the LCD means it's quick as well!)

Matt

Just a word of caution about the ME-Super/ME-F - the ISO wheel was a simple potentiometer that suffered badly from contact dirt. I ended up working out how to service my own ME-F & ME-Supers after getting a few films very badly underexposed! (In the end I got fairly proficient at predicting the aperture/shutter speed at ISO100 with my eyes - as a double check!)

Often by moving the ISO/Ev compensation dial a few times things would start working. However, fixing them was fairly time consuming (but not that difficult).

Just something to watch out for
Matt

Hmmmm...
Well, I've used ME-Super, ME-F, MZ5, and Z1.
Out of that set, the Z1 was great! Loads of customisation, a good feel, and quite a weight. I particularly liked the offset flash-shoe positioning. It also has the benefit of the two-wheel design & Hyper-Program that the K20D has. As a result the Z1 and Z1p should work with the newer lenses that don't have an aperture ring (because you can dial in the aperture the same as you do for the K20D)

However, the MZ5 (and the newer MZ5n) were very compact and lightweight. But not really the toughest camera. My MZ5 went wrong a couple of times

ME-Super/ME-F were both quite nice bodies. Very usable.

Then there's the LX... (Probably just as well I never tried one, as I would certainly have wanted one!!!)

This site: http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/ is the reference for all things Pentax K-mount


Just watch out for - aging light seals etc, and compatibility with the lenses you have.

Good places to check out: www.mxv.co.uk , www.ffordes.co.uk , www.lcegroup.co.uk , plus other online second hand places

HTH!
Matt