RAW effectively records 12-bits on all three channels. JPG has, at most 8-bits (but actually less on the blue channel).
You have more latitude for shadows though - totally blown highlights can't be recovered on either, but there's definitely more in RAW Aim to not clip highlights and they'll be easily recovered in RAW.
Matt

If your location is fixed - use Manual
If your location is not fixed, then use Auto but shoot RAW to give some latitude

The wireless function of the K200D will use P-TTL, and you should set up the AF360 to Slave 1 (IIRC) - ie P-TTL remote. There is a preflash, and a main flash. If you try and slave to a "dumb" remote (e.g. AF360 on Slave 2 mode) then you may end up discharging the flash on the pre-flash trigger with nothing left for the main flash (and underexposure results!)... just in case you didn't know that

Matt

Love the fisheye shots!
Matt

Absolutely love the SMC-DA 17-70
Almost 100% on the K20D!
But the 16-45 is lighter and cheaper...
Matt

My (current) choice would be the Pentax SMC-DA 17-70.

Although only f/4 (f/2.8 would've been nicer), it has a lovely build (solid, but not overheavy, and at least partially weathersealed), gorgeous bokeh, great contrast and colour, and is razor sharp.

I've been using it for general walk-about, and even portraiture at the long end (where it's all but replaced the FA50/1.4 :shock.

Only minor niggle with the K20D is the slight occasional underexposure, but that's minor indeed. Nicer, IMHO, and more useful to me than the 16-45 (which is still a superb lens!).


Matt

When you say "off camera", which camera, and with what are you triggering the remote flash?
Matt

The seller also has a Pentax FA* 80-200 f/2.8. Oooh - 1.5kg of quality
Matt

James,
Sounds like you need my ebook

Still, here are a few pointers:
1) When trying to use Auto Flash mode, FIX the ISO on the camera! If you don't the camera will rack up the ISO but the flash won't know it. (You'll get overexposure in this case)

2) The Pentax flashguns do not automatically track the Aperture selected on the camera. They "read" the aperture only when you put the flash into the "A" mode. The Metz 50MZ5 I had did track the aperture and ISO - this is excellent for 1:1 flash (ie where the flash is the main source). However, fill in is a little more tricky.

3) If you want fill in flash with P-TTL do this (on K10D/K20D):
a) Set the camera to your favourite mode (e.g. Av)
b) Press the Fn button
c) Select the flash icon
d) Choose one of the "Slow" settings on the flash choice (either Slow or Slow+Red Eye)
e) Use the rear wheel to dial in "-1.0"
Now the camera will meter for ambient (as if you didn't have a flash on), and the flash will be 1 stop underexposed.

4) Be wary of a little bug where the camera does not warn you if the exposure is too slow when you don't have the flash in "HS" mode - e.g. if the ambient requires 1/1000s, the camera will not warn and choose 1/180s - DOH!

There's more, but that's a start
Matt

The *ist-D is a fine camera. So tiny compared to the K20D. I'll be hanging onto mine for a long time to come (cost just over £1k when I bought it new!! :shock
Matt

Jason - you should have it in your in-box. Was away at the weekend, sent your PDF off as soon as I returned home last night
Thanks!
Matt