Joe - it's hitting us too... one reason the book was £5, not £15.
And the amount of work and effort it took to write the e-book was enormous A fair bit of the info is available for free on this very thread
Matt

Hi all,
My Tosh M200 LCD is giving up the ghost... can't calibrate it anymore and it's getting extremely frustrating!
Has anyone used the Dell XPS laptop range - the 13" ones with WLED (White LED) look interesting and wondered if anyone has actually seen/used/calibrated one!

I could, of course, replace the CFL on the Tosh which might help a bit...

Thanks!
Matt

..a green hexagon at the bottom of the viewfinder
Matt

AFAIK, the dSLR will pick the point with the greatest contrast for auto AF selection. My wife uses her *ist-Ds on auto and has very few issues.

Personally, I opt for either Centre only or SEL because I like to know exactly where the focus point is going to be
Matt

Some links here:
* http://www.3dphoto.net/forum/index.php?topic=1397.0

* http://schutt.net/john/photography/education/flash/2006-8_creative_flash_handout...

* http://www.chem.helsinki.fi/~toomas/photo/flash-discharge/regular.html

* Hacking a Vivitar 283 - http://hiviz.com/activities/guidebook/Activity_02.html

* http://courses.ncssm.edu/hsi/pacsci/fpaper.html

Have fun
Matt

Just to add a couple of points...

1) It's not the K-mount that makes it large. It's the mirror

2) I agree with the idea of a square sensor. BUT, that makes the mirror larger. In fact, you'd probably find you couldn't fit a square mirror in between the focal plane of the sensor and the mount of the lens. The camera would also be deeper - probably as deep as the K20D+Grip to accommodate the extra height of sensor.

3) Unless you dispense with the mirror and go with an EVF (yuck!) I can't quite see how you can change what we've got by much (Unless you move over to Medium Format...)

Matt

Hi Amin,
You can download it from here:
http://www.photon.me.uk/pu/K20D_FullZoomTest_IMGP4001.JPG
Be warned - it's 10Mb!

Hopefully you can download it and rename it to just "IMGPxxxx.JPG" and stuff in an appropriate directory on your card (usually DCIM, but may be date related depending on your custom settings on the K20D)

Let me know what you find out!
Matt

Ok... I'm going to throw a REAL spanner in the works here

First of all, I found out how to get an edited JPG back onto the camera so it will display it! Woohooo!
1. Go here: http://www.panasonic.com/business/projectors/ss_software.asp
2. Download "JPEG Converter [exe]" and install
3. This little tool saves a DCF compliant JPG to the folder of choice

I renamed the JPG files back to "IMGPxxxx.JPG" and saved to the SD card and the K20D displays them just fine



Now, I took a full res JPG shot of a boring scene, took it into Photoshop and put a black-white-black-white single pixel stripe. I did this horizontally and vertically. Ran it through the DCF converter and displayed on the K20D.

What I get is this:
1. x11 shows promise of 1:1, but vertical lines show a checkerboard pattern (presumably because of the arrangement of pixels in the LCD)
2. x14 is the first zoom to show an accurate 1:1. BUT there is the possibility of some aliasing on the horizontal stripe only. Odd!
3. x16 is really fuzzed up with aliasing issues
4. x19 shows some fuzzing
5. x23 and above clearly and reliably shows the single pixel lines... but it's difficult at these zooms to separate ISO noise from real detail.


My conclusion (at least from this test) - use x11 or x14!

I'm happy to email the 10Mb JPG file if anyone wants to test it out... or you can follow the same procedure as me and see what you come up with!

EDIT: added extra observation about x11.

Matt

Just a point: the ME/ME Super/MEF can suffer from massive underexposure when the variable resistor that is the ISO/Ev adjustment gets dirty
Screwed up a wedding that way
In the end I became a dab hand at replacing the part (have an ME-Super service manual) and Pentax, at the time, used to sell the parts almost at cost (those were the days!!).
Matt

Shim,
It was me
It was AlienSkin's Bokeh filter. ePhotozine review here. Trouble is it's around £140

Thought I'd have a go at regular "Lens Blur" in Photoshop. The trick is creating a decent depth map first and the lens blur filter will use this to simulate the shallow DoF.

One software is "Focal Point", IIRC. Also expensive!
ePhotozine announcement here.

Just Google for "tilt shift photoshop" and you'll get some articles
Matt