Ah! I see

Certainly a lot easier and more controllable to do it in Photoshop

I had problems with a radio trigger anyway (trying out a friend's that works on his 5D and 30D ok). Certainly you'll have to use a 'dumb' flash connection, because the following points may apply:

* AFAIK the camera will prevent higher than 1/180 if it knows there is a flash. That rules out dedicated flashguns. You'll have to connect to the PC connector of the K20/K7, *ist-D, or use an adapter on the other dSLRs

* It's likely that even the PC connector and hotshoe will not trigger at speeds faster than 1/180s. The firmware in the dSLR may prevent the trigger at higher speeds because it 'knows' it'll produce lighting issues.

* Radio triggers etc have their own limitations and restrictions.

I may be able to test it out for you by setting something up on my K20D...

Matt

The limitation of 1/180s is a mechanical one.
That is the fastest speed where both curtains of the shutter are completely "open".

When using dedicated flashes in P-TTL "HS" mode the flash has to "pepper" the frame with light as the leading and trailing curtains of the shutter unit move across the sensor in a slit.

You see, 1/1000s is achieved not by incredibly fast movement, but by the trailing curtain starting before the leading one has reached the end of its travel.

There have been numerous other threads on the subject

All cameras have such limits. Other makes might be 1/250s, but that's not even 1Ev difference.


As with the other threads.... what are you trying to achieve?

Matt

Moved into Classifieds

You can't protect yourself really

All you can do is put very low resolution images on the SD card, or watermark them with a copyright notice. e.g. 600x400 pixels (fine for slideshow, rubbish for printing... but that doesn't necessarily stop them!).

Perhaps they don't want a watermark so they can rip you off
Still, you are within your rights to enforce that, or ask for a suitable payment

Matt

I wear specs (very short sighted :shock and don't find it a big problem. You can just see the whole frame, but I find I have to move very slightly to get the indicators at the bottom.

Still highly recommended though
Matt

Gets me as well
Matt

I'm wondering on the "Why?" as well...

If you want remote control over the Internet then why use the iPhone? What you need is tethering from a PC/Mac to the camera to put the shutter/settings/viewfinder via a web-service - then you can control from the iPhone over the web.

Tim's link looks a good one though for direct linkage into the camera via USB
EDIT: Now I see that software is two parts - one 'server' running on Mac or PC that links directly to the camera, and the 'client' that you run on the iPhone/iPod.

If you want a sound operated shutter, well that's another matter...

Matt

The all black one on the right side fits the camera and still allows the popup to work

The middle one fits on a tripod and takes the flash.

The left one can go on the camera, but the popup won't work. It can also be stacked onto the middle one to allow linking of more than one flash (but you'll need another cable).

The AF540 has a 5P connector in the side, so that only requires the RHS unit and the cable

Matt

All the best with your photography
Matt

There was a Tokina 80-400 in Pentax KAF mount.
However, it's long out of production. Your only hope is to find it second hand...

John recent acquired one I believe
...see here...
Matt