Just did a diff. There are some subtle differences in the two files. Interesting that they both have the same date & time too!

Upgraded my K7.
Checked flash + ISO - definitely follows the ISO choice of "Slow", "Normal", and "Fast"

Doh! Should've checked before I upgraded to see if there was a real difference

Matt

But the K7 has always had a choice of ISO approach - Slow, Normal, and Fast.

I'll do a diff on the two files
Matt

There's not so much difference in the high ISO between the K7 and the direct competition.

Once you master RAW processing and use a decent RAW convertor (like Silkypix Developer Studio Pro or Lightroom 3) then you'll find you can get much, much better results than just in-camera JPGs

I have a 36"x24" canvas from a 6Mp *ist-D, and have professional 402dpi prints at 18"x12" from the K10D, K20D and K7 - even from shots taken at ISO2500 and processed with Silkypix. The results are astonishingly good (even if I say so myself )

At that size, the SMC-DA 17-70 is one of the sharpest all rounders, and the SMC-DA* 50-135 really 'sings' when printed large (even shooting at f/2.8 or f/3.5 at high ISO). One shot I have from the K7 + DA17-70 is on my hallway wall and is bitingly sharp and clear - almost too much!


But then the K5 has even lower noise, and higher maximum ISO

You could always hire one from SRS
Matt

No confidence at all
One of my clips broke off a long while ago. Then I treated it with more care... and eventually the corner of the rear case started cracking with the extra strain it was taking.

In the end I fixed it myself. It was a complete and utter PITB (making sure the capacitor was discharged of course! :shock. A nightmare to disassemble. But glued the corner, and mounted a small metal tag to replace the broken plastic one. Before you ask - it's totally uneconomical to repair (but I couldn't bear to see an otherwise excellent flash go to waste)!

So my advice is - treat the battery door with a LOT of respect while it's good

Matt

Nice panorama

[trivia]
FWIW, I use the same operating system at work as the A380's navigation system (though the A380 uses the 178B version of course) - GHS INTEGRITY
[/trivia]

Matt

Pierre,
That's a good plan
Don't be afraid to experiment with reflectors and light modifiers - even with the built in flash.

Some suggestions:
* Tissue paper
* 'Funky foam' craft foam
* Aluminium kitchen foil
* Cleaned out plastic milk carton

Direct, straight-on, flash can produce very 'hard' and clinical results. Softening, diffusing and reflecting are good ways to change the quality of the light

Matt

I saw the same thing with the Huey - but only with the Huey software. Argyll+Huey worked very nicely indeed.

Matt

Replacement back covers shouldn't be too expensive (IIRC, I picked up a new one for the *ist-D for around £6), but replacing it may be tricky... it might just be bonded to the back with some thin double-sided sticky.

You might try phoning Asahi Photo - I have found them exceptionally helpful

Matt

In general, yes.

For a flash, it's all down to angle of view
Sometimes you might want to use a different flash zoom to the lens zoom for effect (e.g. use a wider flash angle for a softer light at close distance).

Matt

Actually, the Spyder hardware seems absolutely fine (AFAICT).
It's the software that's 'orrible

I would suggest a Spyder Express (or Pantone Huey - which is slightly easier to install) and Argyll CMS and dispCalGUI.

I've even done a sticky thread here on it.
It's all Open Source so you can calibrate as many machines and monitors as you like

...works a dream for me (even on displays that the Pantone Huey AND the Spyder software choked on!)

HTH!
Matt