Hi, it looks to me as if it might be an extension cord for a hot shoe grip, or maybe an AF400T flashgun.

I bought the DS initially and found it to be a very capable SLR. But . . . (there's always a but ) I then bought a broken D with a Tamron 28-105mm Zoom for peanuts, had it mended by those lovely Pentax people, and I have to say that I much prefer the user interface of the D to the DS. The hyper-program facility is great and the fact that it has 2 thumbwheels which are primarily used for changing Shutter and Aperture (one wheel for each) makes it much simpler to use in my opinion.

I liked the D so much I just bought another one on eBay but unfortunately the seller lied to me (yes, I believed him). The camera is actually fine, works well and is undamaged and I'm quite happy with it but it has taken almost 8000 shots. Before buying it I asked the question "How many shots has it taken" and the seller replied "I don't know, hundreds, but not thousands". I fell for it.

The moral of this story is, don't always believe what the seller tells you. That said, there are still bargain D's to be had.

For info: My broken D had been dropped from a not very great height and the mode switch was inoperable. I bought it for £250, Pentax fixed it for £175.00 and its perfect now. My second one came boxed and complete with a Tamron XR IF 28-200mm zoom for about £425.00. So . . .
a new DS with kit lens for less than £500.00 is a pretty good deal I reckon, and you'll get the all important warranty. ALthough I prefer the D, the DS is a great camera. Go for it, both feet, enjoy.

I'd bet somebody somewhere has got one just like it, but the other half.

Anybody got a parts manual ? It might be repairable .

I've found a previous thread on this subject which answers most of my questions.

Thanks.

Thanks very much John. I somehow new you would have the answer

Regards.

Hi again,

I'd like to learn more about the history of the older Takumar lenses. Can anybody suggest a website I can visit to get the info I want?

Essentially, I'd like to know the differences between the Super-Takumar & Super Multi Coated Takumar lenses, some are also described as Auto-Takumar. I'm aware of the SMC coating and its benefits.

Also, which in your esteemed opinions, is the better type of lens to collect (for use, not to gather dust). I have a 105mm 1:2.8 on its way

I don't propose buying a M42 threaded camera, I want to try them out on my istD (difficulties of use commented by George in another thread has been noted) and MZ-S.

Sorry, I forgot to mention . . well done . . . great price.

I hope I'm not pouring water on your parade but . . . and this is a good lens, as are all of the Pentax 50mm's . . . the one you have bought is the slowest of them all but I'm confident you will not be disappointed with the results. It makes a great macro lens when reversed too.

There are some good value 1:1.4's around if you look long and hard enough, sometimes amongst the 'outfits' for sale.

There are I think 4 lenses in the 50mm lineup. I'm not sure if these are replicated in the K, M and A variants. They are (from fastest to slowest) 1:1.2, 1:1.4, 1:1.7 (some say the sharpest), and the 1:2. The 1:1.7 was a common 'standard' lens in the 80's when I bought my Super-A with one and I think the 1:2 became the standard lens later on around the P30 era. Others more knowledgeable than me will correct me I hope.

Although the 1:1.2 is the 'fastest' of the bunch and therefore facilitates shooting in lower light levels, it's performance wide-open in normal lighting is not highly regarded, ( see www.stans-photography.com )it sharpens up a lot when stopped down 'though.

Can we assume that your 'blurry' shots are taken whilst you are on horseback? If so, is the horse stationary, trotting, galloping . . . ?

I have no knowledge of your particular model camera but I wouldn't reasonably expect any point 'n shoot camera if set to auto mode, to produce anything but 'blurry' images if one is astride a moving horse. You as the rider are moving in all three planes when the horse is anything but stationary (left to right, up and down, and forward (hopefully not backwards).

If your camera has a shutter priority mode or TV on a dial somewhere use that mode and wind the shutter speed up to the maximum it will allow and still allow a useable aperture. Then steadily decrease the speed until the images become unacceptable. That should then give you a minimum shutter speed that you should be working with whilst on horseback.

Failing that I have only 2 suggestions:

1: Replace the camera with one that has some manual control (if yours doesn't). Or at least borrow one.
2: You guessed it . . . get off the horse.

Regards

. . . I feel doubley embarrased now becasue I have just found a set of tubes AND a 2 X converter gathering dust, old ones which I have replaced with better ones. I'm still finding it difficult to break something that's perfectly usable 'though, even if I'm not using it. Daft, I know, I expect I'll get over it.

Now where's my set of watchmakers drivers to get these tiny screws out (that I can barely see) . . .

Thanks again for the tip, and the forum triumphs again proving . . . two (or more) heads are better than one . . . or . . . many hands make a light holder work (sorry in advance).