Checkout this thread. Brian seems to have removed the images though.

If we were talking about a CD player or a TV that had some problem, the first recourse would be to take the 'faulty' item back to the place from where it was purchased, or to its manufacturer.

The same is true of cameras but their is a natural reluctance to commit our beloved tools to a repair/replacement process.

That said, if Pentax had enough 'faulty' bodies returned to them, it might make a difference.

Our own poll, even from a very small sample, shows a significant probability that this is a common problem which ought to be remedied by Pentax.

Our observations might carry more weight with Pentax if all K10D owners registered with Pentax User would check their cameras and vote in this poll. Come on guys 'n gals, help the cause . . . check your camera over the weekend and post your findings here.

At the very least, a moderator could send the content of this thread to Pentax.

Thanks for the info. Very interesting.

Maybe then the SR and DR mechanism is not to blame for the inconsistency in image level if their positioning/datum systems are so accurate.

It could be then that the setup of some of these cameras is not accurate. This could only be proven if all of the cameras affected, have the same amount of error in every shot.

My Test: I checked my K10D out today using the bottom edge of an aluminium window frame as my horizontal reference. I aligned the lower (and widest) horizontal framing guides with said window frame and took a shot, hand held but very carefully.

My Result: The horizontal level of my recorded image is the same as that seen through the viewfinder. No problem here.

My Theory: Both the shake reduction (SR) and dust removal (DR) technologies employed within this camera must mean that the sensor is mounted on a moving/moveable surface. If the SR system has only 2 axis of correction and can cater for rotational 'shake', then I'm not surprised that this moving/moveable surface doesn't come to rest in the same place each time, even if SR is turned off. Interference fit of certain parts and manufacturing tolerances of those parts would almost certainly prevent it from doing so.

To keep your SMC-A 100mm 1:2.8 Macro in, silly.

Something that I think will raise a chuckle or three can be viewed here.

With reference to your chosen heading: Most of us here give a lot more than a s**t. If you don't, good luck.

We don't ask anything for our time here, but we do value it, time that is and no, I'm not bored, not bored enough to ignore your posts completely . . . yet anyway.

Many who post here use english as their second language Most of those are able to punctuate a sentence properly and begin each with a capital letter.

Put simply, their grammar may not be perfect, the odd word might be misplaced, but they do take the trouble to get it as correct as they are able. The same cannot be said about you . . . yet.

If you are prepared to ask for free advice, don't be so lazy and at least make your posts simpler for us to read. If not, I fear most will not be read.

With reference to your original post (which actually has nothing to do with Pentax Film SLR Cameras): No, I have nothing tangible to add as I have no personal experience of that particular scanner. I use an Epson flatbed and Minolta film scanner.

EDIT: I've just read your reply to George's PM (forever the diplomat). Apology accepted.

Hi,

If you look at the bottom right of your keyboard you'll find a key with a little dot on it. It's called a full stop and is often used to end one sentence before beginning another. Another standard practice is to begin a sentence with a capital letter. Please try and punctuate your posts so that we don't have to spend longer than necessary trying to work out where you should have used a full stop.

Cheers,

To my knowledge, it's not the door flap that breaks, it's the door securing lugs on the body which break making it an expensive repair.

I had the door catch on an AF280T break once and it cost only £8 ( £3.00 for the door, £8 minimum charge) to fix it.

The only remedy, apart from Mr Spider's pin, that I know of is a replacement body shell.

If I were the end user, I would not be happy with it and I'd return it to Pentax for repair and an explanation.

My K10D doesn't exhibit this symptom, but I'll be watching out for it.