Others have noted this issue. Search the forum for 'leaning'. I have found lots of posts, but i can't open any of them.

Thanks for your reply Ken.

Do you (or anybody) have any idea how guide numbers of camera flashes equate to output power of studio flash?

EG: The AF540FGZ has a GN of 54 at 100 ISO, the Elinchrom D-Lite 2 has a max output power of 200W. What's the conversion factor from one to the other?

That's because it's not a fisheye lens. Fisheye lenses are of curvilinear design. The Sigma 10-20mm and Pentax 12-24mm are both rectilinear.

Nice pic for such a long exposure but the horizon needs straightening up.

Why is the foreground grass red? Does it have something to do with the red lights on the horizon?

To address your original post, what you buy is largely dependant on your budget and what you like to take photo's of.

For weather sealing,higher pixel count, and fast lens, you'd need a combination of the K20D and a DA* lens.

Both the DA* 16-50 and 50-135 will increase your low light opportunities, but not by much as they are both have a max aperture of f2.8.

John's advice of the FA 50mm 1:1.4 is sound, but it's not weather sealed and you'd have to review your images to determine if this is a fixed focal length that you would use very often.

Best advice I can give is buy good glass first, get closer to your subject or buy longer focal length lenses to reduce the need for cropping.

Your K200D (EDIT: I meant K100DS) is an excellent camera and I doubt that you need to change to a K20D just yet. The only real advantage you'd get by so doing is the higher pixel count and weather sealing.

With regard to sharper images, the lens plays an important part, but it doesn't end there. focussing technique and post-processing of RAW files are equally important.

I've not done any serious studio work since my college days (a vey long time ago) and have no 'proper' lighting at the moment to do any.

I have a portable flash arsenal of 2 X AF540FGZ, 2 X AF360FGZ, AF500FTZ.

Question: Is it feasible to use either the 360's or 540's, atop stands fitted with hot shoe flash brackets and reflective or shoot through umbrellas? Are these flashes powerful enough?

If I were to need/want 'proper' lighting, does anybody have any experiences, good or bad, of the Elinchrom D-Lite 2 kits.

My main interest will be product photography where a light tent would be inadequate, and staged macro photography. I can't see myself entering the world of portraiture, glamour, fashion etc where people are the subject.

That was the reason I suggested an FAQ section, but as others pointed out, there can be new (or different) answers to old questions.

I make a point of never reading posts formatted (or rather, the lack of any) in this way.

The poster should not only consider the person they are responding to, but everybody here who might have an interest in the original subject.

We do have the edit function, so these posts can be made easier to read if the poster had any inclination to do so.

It's not likely in my opinion. I don't find adjusting the aperture on the body too difficult anyway. It's become second nature now.

My post was in reply to your observation that you had no interest or comments on this topic. I wasn't offering to buy them, merely offering my advice on how you might get the most for them. Put them on ebay.