So are you saying that your image, posted as an example, has been processed to remove CA that was evident?

Similar subject Stan, but completely different shooting conditions/lighting.

I think that the OP is seeing some chromatic aberration in the out of focus parts of the dark rock, shot against a bright background. What I don't understand is why it's showing as grey rather than magenta or cyan.

Many lenses will have a problem given those lighting conditions.

There is even some CA in the shot above. Open the large image and zoom in to the cut cables of the aerial. They are showing a magenta CA to the right of the cable. Similarly in the cable that extends up the right side of the mast. Not much, but it is there, and again it's showing on dark objects with a bright background.

To me, that looks like CA that has been corrected. If it were camera/lens shake, the effect would be in the same plane, all over the edges of the image, but it isn't.

Looking at your second image, the aberration is perpendicular to any edge. That's not shake of any kind.

I wasn't objecting to anything. It is however possible that I misinterpreted the meaning of your statement. Whether that was due to how it was written or my reading it incorrectly, who knows.

Not strictly true, P-TTL is disabled when a pre-A series lens is used.

Definitely modern. As John has said, you'll need an electronic flash meter. Have a look at the Sekonic range. Some can even wirelessly trigger compatible flash systems to make the taking of readings much easier.

Excellent for handheld, think how good it could be on a tripod. Tomorrow, 15th April, there will be a blood moon due to the eclipse if you are far enough South to see it.

Almost any of the Pentax DSLR's introduced in the last 5 years or so will be a good starter. Later models bring improvements that expand your photographic experience. Early models are not much use for motorsport unless it is a bright sunlit day, but for general photography, they will serve you well. A cheap introduction to DSLR photography too.

For my money, on a budget, I'd look for a K10D (10Mp CCD) or K20D (14Mp CMOS). The difference between the sensor types is primarily colour rendition.

I'm the one wearing glasses . . .

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