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As others have said, there is no firmware update for the K100D Super camera. The K100D is a different model for which there is a firmware version 1.02 but it will not work in the K100D Super, which is probably why you are having trouble upgrading.
I've used the DA* 50-135mm for winter indoor show jumping events with good results, good enough that some of the images sold anyway.
It'll be fine.
It'll be fine.
Comment by Mannesty posted on DA* 50 135 for action or not? at 24/04/2014 - 21:11
Garnett wrote:
To me it seems like the K3 isn't much more and seems impressively specc'ed...
Looks like decision made, go for it.To me it seems like the K3 isn't much more and seems impressively specc'ed...
Comment by Mannesty posted on K5 just isn't really cutting it in low light at 24/04/2014 - 14:14
This shot taken with the K-5 II + Sigma 70-200mm lens would have been impossible with my K-5. 1/25th sec, f8, ISO 800. (Yes, 1/25th sec, it's not a typo).
The car is travelling at about 50-60 mph at this point. It took me almost 2 years of practice, and spending money on the right gear to get decent shots in rubbish conditions.
The blown out blob in the background is the reflective vest of a marshal.
The car is travelling at about 50-60 mph at this point. It took me almost 2 years of practice, and spending money on the right gear to get decent shots in rubbish conditions.
The blown out blob in the background is the reflective vest of a marshal.
Comment by Mannesty posted on K5 just isn't really cutting it in low light at 24/04/2014 - 14:03
I switched from K-5 to K-5 II for dimly lit nighttime motorsport and I can say that the low light performance of the K-5 II is vastly superior to the K-5.
I also believe the same improvement applies to the K-3 over the K-5II/s.
To answer your quandary, if you have the money, K-3 is a no brainer. K-5 II's are dropping in price so if money is tight, upgrade to a used K-5 II/s.
If Money really isn't a problem . . . got any lenses going cheap?
I also believe the same improvement applies to the K-3 over the K-5II/s.
To answer your quandary, if you have the money, K-3 is a no brainer. K-5 II's are dropping in price so if money is tight, upgrade to a used K-5 II/s.
If Money really isn't a problem . . . got any lenses going cheap?
Comment by Mannesty posted on K5 just isn't really cutting it in low light at 24/04/2014 - 13:47
gwing wrote:
It looks like CA to me yes. But the question then is can anything be done about it, hence the interest in trying CA correction against the raw.
Lightroom's CA removal option removes the colour cast around the edges, but replaces it with grey.It looks like CA to me yes. But the question then is can anything be done about it, hence the interest in trying CA correction against the raw.
Comment by Mannesty posted on Lens shake? at 24/04/2014 - 13:41
kh1234567890 wrote:
Unless a new form of colourless CA had appeared
That's possible. Taking the hole in my first crop shot as an example where part of it shows green and the other magenta, there are also parts that are grey.Unless a new form of colourless CA had appeared
So, either the grey parts contain both green and magenta, therefore cancelling one another to produce grey, or they contain neither, leaving only the grey ghostly 'halo'.
Bearing in mind the magnification required to see it, I don't think it's such a big deal. I've seen a lot worse.
Comment by Mannesty posted on Lens shake? at 24/04/2014 - 13:38
kh1234567890 wrote:
It is hard to tell anything without having the full image.
I have the full image. I've shown the worst affected areas, cropped only, no other processing, and included the full image. What else would you like to see?It is hard to tell anything without having the full image.
Take a look at the hole in the rock in the cropped image, it shows a definite green tint on about half its circumference and magenta on the rest. Do you not think this is chromatic aberration?
Comment by Mannesty posted on Lens shake? at 24/04/2014 - 10:21
Mike sent the image to me and in my opinion, it's CA, there's a very definite green tint to some edges, but not all. It seems to me that where the background is blue (sky), the foreground rock edge has a green tint and where the background is white (cloud) the edge CA appears grey.
Crop near the top of the left hand rock.
Crop of the top of the right hand rock.
Original
Crop near the top of the left hand rock.
Crop of the top of the right hand rock.
Original
Comment by Mannesty posted on Lens shake? at 24/04/2014 - 08:06
Excellent images, well done. What makes you think you need to use a wider angle lens? Were you shooting at 150mm mostly?
I can get much closer to the action for my motorsport images (oval track) and I use a Sigma 70-200mm mostly, by far the majority are taken in the 70-100mm range.
I can get much closer to the action for my motorsport images (oval track) and I use a Sigma 70-200mm mostly, by far the majority are taken in the 70-100mm range.
Comment by Mannesty posted on Donington BTCC 2014 at 24/04/2014 - 00:32
