Bobby, there's tons of good literature out there but I think the most overlooked document is the camera manual itself.
Once the owner has figured out the controls and how to insert the batteries etc. it often ends up consigned to a draw or the bottom of the kit bag.
The manufacturer wants you to get the most from his product and there's loads of hints and tips within the manual's pages - after years of use, I still frequently refer to mine!

I think that is normal for some lenses, the minimum focussing distance varies depending on the focal length that you have selected.
If only half of the focussing range is available at any given focal length, then that sounds a bit dramatic and I suspect that it may not be functioning correctly.
Can you confirm the distances that are available with and without the use of the macro button? - they should range from infinity (the sideways figure 8 symbol) down to a few metres. The macro button should then allow focussing at closer distances and the markings for macro settings are usually in a different colour.
Often, it is difficult to focus within the macro range by using the focussing ring and the normal technique is to move the camera and/or the subject until correct focus is achieved.
Some lenses are designed so that the macro function is only available at a certain focal length (the telephoto end) and operating the button will alter both the focussing and zoom rings.

Sorry I can't be more precise but I'm not that familiar with Sigma lenses, although some of them are very good indeed and they generally represent good value for money.

If you let us know the make, or perhaps post a link to it, we'll be in a better position to advise you.

With auctions such as eBay now being so popular, there's no real second-hand value anymore - identical items often sell for very different prices!

I know exactly what you mean but other than buying a scrap Z1/Z1-P, I don't know where you'd be able to get one from.
Have you tried Pentax UK?

Hello,
I don't know about the EX bit, the E on it's own means that there's a film transport fault (reloading the film could fix this) but if the motor's packed up then it's a repair job, I'm afraid.
E plus a number (perhaps the X means ten), would be a shutter fault - also requiring repair.
I'd try swapping batteries again, just to be sure - I presume it takes two and maybe one is a little low and doesn't have enough oomph to power the motor.
I've never had a 90WR but I was impressed when I handled one a few years ago. My 280-P has a manual rewind button inside the compartment that houses the remote control, perhaps the 90WR is the same!

Just looked at the manual http://www.pentax.com/docstore/index.cfm?show=6
and the rewind button is indeed in the remote housing and like my 280-P, it takes two CR123 cells.
I suspect that your problem is simply that the film didn't load properly and the EX on the display is referring to the exposure counter and not part of the error code.
If the film is unused, just open the camera and try to reload the film ensuring that the leader is placed flat against the film plane and not pushed too far into the take-up chamber.

My immediate thought was with regard to the metering pattern also.
It might be worth ascertaining the 'correct' exposure by using the reflected reading from an 18% grey card and comparing the settings chosen by the three cameras but I'm not sure how positive that would be where the perceived error is only around 1/2 a stop.

Despite the lenses being pretty naff, Jessop's Centon range of flashguns perform well for the price and you might like to consider one of those.
Also, they are modular so you can use the same gun on different cameras simply by using the relevent module. You buy the gun of your choice - with regard to the power output, flash head zoom/tilting etc. and then, whatever modules you need.
It's quite a comprehensive system inc. pro-grips etc. and I think well worth a look!

[bought my Centon gun years ago - I hope they still make-em ]

George,
With regard to the 50mm lens, I was referring to the focussing ring as both the focussing and zoom positions retract on FA zooms.
The Z1-P manual refers to this as a function of FA zoom lenses only, so 'fair enough' - presumably Pentax did not consider the extension of a prime lens due to focus position to be a problem.
It isn't but I would have thought that it was possible (if zooms can do it) and was a little suprised that the lens stayed put when I switched off the camera.
Obviously this feature only applies to FA zooms, as my F35-135mm also does not retract (but this was designed for the SFX), I thought that I might have been missing out on this feature by buying an F50mm instead of an FA50mm, but apparently not.

Incidentally, as the power is supplied by the camera, I thought it would be possible with the FA lenses, whether power-zoom or not as there must be a delay between operating the off switch (on Z series cameras) and the power actually being shut off.

Hello Kim,

I think you're right, I've just tried my F 35-135 zoom (manual zoom, normally used on my SXF) and that doesn't retract on the Z1-P, so I presume it's a feature confined to the FA series and possibly only to the zooms.

I've just received a mint condition one of these for my Z1-P, bought it off eBay for £31+£4 p+p.
WOW, it is fantastic - can't wait to shoot off a few slides
I would have liked a 100mm as I already have a fabulous A series 50mm 1.2 but all my other AF lenses are zooms.
Having not used a prime AF lens before, I was a little suprised that it doesn't retract to infinity when the camera is switched off (as my FA zoom does) and I was wondering if the later FA version does this?

My first impression of the lens (I've had it for less than an hour) is that it's every bit as good as the A series and up to my expectations based on comments from others on this forum.
There aren't many Pentax fixed focal length AF lenses around, so I'd advise anyone who spots one at a reasonable price to snap it up without hesitation!