I'm suprised no one has got back to you yet, I've no experience of this type of servicing I'm afraid but was wondering if you are able to lift the flash manually whilst pressing the button.
If so, then at least it would be usable and you may be able to see inside for anything that might be fouling the mechanism.

A relatively 'safe' bet would be to try your local suppliers, if you pop into Jessops they'll allow you to try their second-hand lenses on your camera.
Do a little research on the models that you're interested in and see if you can beat Jessop's prices.
Jessops will also transfer equipment from a distant store to your local one for you to inspect - with no obligation on your part to buy.
You'll no doubt pay more but you'll get a limited warranty, so you can return it if you're not happy.

As others have said, you'll get the best bargains on eBay and if it's only costing a fraction of the price elsewhere, what's the risk?

Excellent, thankyou very much kim - I'll be getting one soon!

Thankfully, I don't have a problem with a camera at the moment but there are so many electronic gizmos that rely on batteries, that I thought I'd better invest in something effective.
Actually, I've got an alarm clock with furry contacts, caused by battery leakage, so I can test it on that.

Thanks again.

Hi folks,

I normally use an alcohol based liquid and cotton bud to clean battery terminals and the contacts in the battery compartment but was wondering if http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=777_1_103_10313&products_id=5993
was a decent alternative - anyone used such a product?

Thanks
Kimbo.

I'd be inclined to try another battery anyway, it's a long shot but I doubt you'll find the cost of repair to be economical (around £50).

Why not pop into a local photo shop (Jessops perhaps) and get a second opinion - they'll no doubt try another battery at no cost to you!

Excellent links Matt

Ah, well this is where my knowledge is a little sketchy but I think I'm right in saying that the 1: refers to the focal length in use, so at 35mm the diameter of the max. aperture (lens wide open) can be divided into the distance between the front and rear elements 3.5 times. At 70mm the effective aperture becomes smaller and can then be divided into the focal length 4.5 times.
So yes it is a ratio or you can think of it as a fraction ie. 1/3.5 or 1/4.5
Just remember 'big number ~ small hole', so f22 (1/22) is a tiny hole that allows only a small amount of light to pass through the lens and onto the film.
Smaller apertures (big numbers) require correspondingly longer shutter speeds but enable greater depth of field.

The ratio could be between the front element and the film plane but either way, I think I've got the gist of it right



BTW, lens construction is not an exact science and the figures quoted are approximate. The number of elements, focussing and zooming mechanisms will determine the actual physical size of the lens but the figures will indicate the size of the image rendered on the film.
Therefore, you can have two lenses of the same focal length that are quite different in terms of their physical dimensions but which both deliver approx. the same angle of view.

I thought I'd just add that for 35mm cameras, 50mm lenses are considered 'standard' (approx the angle of view of the human eye) and give a natural perspective. Anything shorter is wide-angle and longer is telephoto.
The 35-70mm zoom is therefore slightly wide-angle, through standard to slightly telephoto.
Most zooms of moderate range are capable of good results at all focal lengths and aperture settings but 'superzooms' ie. 28-200mm, whilst being very versatile, make too many optical compromises and tend to deliver really good results only at certain settings and prime (single focal length) lenses and moderate zooms should be used where optimum quality is required.

Zoom lenses with wide ranges also tend to have smaller maximum apertures - making them less useful in low light situations.

I think you are asking about controlling the depth of field ie. isolating the subject from it's surroundings.
I don't own an S50 but normally the hand book will suggest how to achieve such an effect and I imagine that the portrait mode will do that for you.
If you're talking about moving subjects, then panning the camera will blur the background.

I'll see if I can find the specs. for your camera and hopefully determine the best way for you get the result you are after.

http://www.ukdigital.co.uk/spec%20sheets/pentax_s50_digital_camera_spec.htm

You can use Spot AF to ensure precise focussing on the subject and a long focal length to help blur the surroundings.

Hope that helps.

BTW, you should have posted in the digital section

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4688&item=3878994321&rd=1&ssPageName=WD2V

or even -

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4688&item=3878144090&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW