I've also slightly disguised your e-mail address.

No 4 is particularly good.

Go into the date menu and adjust the various parameters. The flashing value is the one we can change by using up/down key actions. Move between values with left/right key actions. When set, the final detail is to press the Settings Complete tab.

You are probably just going into the World Time menu, which only sets the zone.

There's a raw intensity to these images, combining the IR effect and the utter crispness that only digital can do. They evoke feeling, and photography becomes art.

It's the new issue, subscribers should have just received it.

There are lots of cameras that process the RAW output to some degree, especially mirrorless ones.

The new AP does a long review of the K-1 II, quite positive in most ways, then elsewhere in the magazine adds a comment article that might wind a few people up a bit.

You've done nothing wrong derek897, useful link, hope it results in a sale. I'd agree that the 18-135mm would be a better choice than the 18-55mm, but usually it would be out of the budget indicated.

We don't know what lenses you already have, but if it is to be the only lens then a "standard" lens will give you the most verstaility.

So, either the SMC Pentax-DA 35mm f/2.4

or

SMC Pentax-DA 18-55mm (WR if possible)

Modern lenses tend not to have aperture rings and aperture is controlled by the camera body instead. For an older lens to be used in this way it needs an A on the aperture ring to enable it. That's why even for Av the A setting should be used.

If you really want to use the aperture ring instead, you can do using manual settings.

If the lens in question won't move to some apertures then the ring is faulty. I think some early SMC Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7 lenses were susceptible to aperture ring faults.

An interesting selection of innovative compositions.