What you have been told is probably correct, but you've misunderstood what was meant.

Physically, both sensors are the same size - approx. 23.5 x 15.7mm - but the K100D contains only 6.1 million pixels (6.1MP) and the K10D has 10.2MP which will enable bigger enlargements, but the individual pixels have to be smaller to fit them all on the chip.

Bigger pixels are more sensitive to light and the K100D has a sensitivity up to 3200 ISO. The K10D stops at 1600 ISO. So in low light the K100D will have greater sensitivity and lower noise.

For your needs the K100D may be more appropriate.

The only reasons to buy the K100D in prefernce to the K10D would be the lower price, if you were not contemplating making big prints (larger than A4) and if you decided you needed the 3200 ISO setting (the K10D stops at 1600).

Otherwise, every advantage lies with the K10D, which competes at a level similar to the Nikon D200 in terms of quality and specification, but with a really exciting price level.

They'll be pretty upset if that happens and they did have 1000 on order!

Well, I would assume that -13 in stock is no stock and 13 orders already in and paid for.

1000 cameras is pretty impressive in one way, but it won't go far round 300 shops!

Hope you get your camera soon - the wait will be worth it.

Only meant that the instruction book doesn't actually say the green button will work, but refers us to page 210 which describes quite clearly how and where exposure errors may occur. The answer seems to be Manual setting, and via the optical stop down switch.

Unfortunately I can't test the point as I have now moved over entirely to A series or later lenses.

So red herring in the sense that Pentax don't appear to have ever claimed it would work....

:

PS If I'm right in this, I'm not surprised there is confusion because the wording of the manual is, IMHO, atrociously vague.

A couple of thoughts.

First, if you use a screw thread lens then whatever aperture you set it to (set the A/M switch on the lens to M) the camera will have to accept that as open aperture and Av should work just fine.

With a K or M bayonet lens you need to use optical stop down (on the collar around the shutter release button) to stop the lens down and activate the meter in M mode.

Don't forget to set the custom function to permit use of aperture ring.

The use of the green button in these cases may prove to be a red herring...

Sue and myself and friends will be there on Sunday.

Focus lock is intended to avoid the lens "creeping" if it is pointed downwards or upwards. So, for example, if you were copying documents you could lock the focus point and know that the lens would not gradually creep out of focus due to gravity.

All this implies that the camera is on a tripod and you are making a series of pictures at the same focus point.

In macro work of the kind i have described, manual focus is also very much easier than autofocus.

A simple and inexpensive 1970s (?) lens that I would expect to give competent but unexciting results.

The Pentax 135mm lenses of the period should be significantly better.

I pulled that quote from Matt from the second of those threads.

You got 10.2MP and 22 bit, so I guess it was worth the two year wait!