I would suggest eBay. Make the photos you put on good ones, describe the goods fairly, start at a low price and you should get a good response.

Which camera are you selling?

As I understand it, no camera can be taken, searched or tampered with without a warrant. It seems some officers make up the law as they go along, but of course it would fall apart in court.

I have a very old copy of AP, full of ideas as to how amateur photographers can find interesting things to photograph. They suggest nipping down to the local school playground, which is sure to be full of interesting photo opportunities.

That was 70 years ago. How things have changed.

It might be a hit over the top, but Sue and I signed the petition just to show support for fellow photographers.

What happened to the photographers in the story given was totally out of order. You do not have to have a reason to be in a public place and you don't need anyone's permission to take photographs. If anyone tries to delete your pictures against your wishes they are probably committing an assault.

Of course it's always a good idea to remain courteous at all times, but we haven't had any problems ourselves. Has anyone else?

Marketing. The actual production cost of an item bears no relation to the selling price.

There seems to be a presumption that the Samsung variants will be in some way inferior because things will have been purposely left out or reduced in specification.

Do we have any real evidence of this?

I'm not totally sure, but I suspect you are trying to put exposure compensation on without measuring an exposure. That is, the original exposure may still be locked in until you take a new one with a new half press of the shutter release. Once you have dialled in compensation it will stay there until you take it away again.

Try a light pressure on the shutter button before you dial in the compensation. I've noticed this on occasion and i think it might have nothing to do with writing to the card.

I think 30 secs at f32 is pushing any meter beyond its limits, so results may well be unpredictable. I would try a more normal exposure, using perhaps f8 as a starting point, and see if the cameras agree more closely then.

Don't forget though that if one camera wanted to give 30 secs and the other 60 secs, that would only be one stop difference, which would not be a disaster by any means.

It is possible to have a camera converted to take IR. The IR filter is removed and substituted with plain glass (hopefully coated to prevent reflections). Then the only thing to remember is to correct the lens focus point. Older lenses with IR focusing marks are very useful in this respect.

This is done quite a bit in the USA, but I suspect less so here in the UK. It will cause a degredation of normal performance. The filter is there for a reason.

Any repair house ought to be able to do this.

In terms of quality all the pentax bayonet mount lenses come from an era of computer aided design and are top quality. Some film lenses are however not at their best on digital because of chromatic abberation effects (colour fringing) but most are fine. The 50mm lenses are all superb, and do indeed have a field of view similar to a 75mm lens on a 35mm film camera. In other words, an ideal portrait lens.

The f number is a ratio and means exactly the same on any lens and any format.

As regards depth of field, in practice and for a given magnification (please note these caveats) don't forget that a 50mm lens remains a 50mm lens and hence there would be a little more DOF on a reduced size digital format. There are not many lenses with DOF scales these days, but older ones will have. I would use them on the cautious side anyway. If you use say f11 aperture then use the DOF for f8 and you won't go far wrong. It's all very approximate.

The easy way to get maximum DOF is to use a small aperture and focus on a point about a third of the way into your scene.

Old M series lenses can be used as you describe on the DSLRs, but it is more convenient and reliable (exposure-wise) to use A series lenses or later.

Hope that helps!