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johnriley

Joined: 19th March 2002

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johnriley
You can use exposure lock on all settings. I couple it to the AF point and lock focus and exposure with a half press of the shutter release.

All it does is lock the exposure, so when you move the camera to recompose the readings will stay the same.

Comment by johnriley posted on blow out skys - how to solve the problem?? at 22/11/2007 - 13:01

johnriley
Most effects can be done in Photoshop, so these days I only ever would think about the following filters:

Polariser
Graduated ND
UV or Skylight (to prevent too much blue light scattering around at high altutude, not to protect the lens)

In reality I only ever bother with the polariser and that very rarely.

Comment by johnriley posted on blow out skys - how to solve the problem?? at 22/11/2007 - 12:53

johnriley
There's a terrific Highlight/Shadow control in PS CS2 that could help.

One answer is to recompose the shot, although that isn't really possible in the example. Here you have a subject in shadow and a bright sky behind. One way might be to light the subject with some flash, which would reduce the exposure for the background. That works for a portrait, but for this large subject you might need very powerful flash to achieve the same.

In any event, Chris A has done a good job for you.

As regards exposure compensation, don't dial it in as standard, that isn't necessary, learn where to use it by accepting what the camera meters at first and then learning where it needs correcting.

Comment by johnriley posted on blow out skys - how to solve the problem?? at 21/11/2007 - 13:01

johnriley
Following Galoot's fine example, I have continued the theme. Seems we have a theme within a theme for this week - so far anyway!

Comment by johnriley posted on Discussion: Weekly Competition 20 "My Day" at 21/11/2007 - 17:11

johnriley
Ah, yes, it's been a long day...I wasn't talking about the built in flash, was I?

Comment by johnriley posted on Pentax *istDS flash with Takumar lens ? at 20/11/2007 - 18:30

johnriley
Have you remembered to stop down the lens? With a screw lens this is most easily done by setting the A/M switch on the lens to manual and simply using the paerture ring. The camera should be quite happy with that in Av mode.

The flash could be set to Auto (old fashioned Auto, not P-TTL or any of the other more recent modes) and the appropriate aperture you will be using, so if for example it gave f5.6 and f11 as its options then you would use the one that was appropriate for the distance you were working at.

Comment by johnriley posted on Pentax *istDS flash with Takumar lens ? at 20/11/2007 - 17:38

johnriley
It's split because it spreads the topibs into areas of interest, in theory at least. But it is up to posters to put their topic where they think it's appropriate.

I tend to leave them, but I do delete or merge duplicated threads where people start the same discussion all over the forum!

Life's too short and there are higher priorities than policing the placement of threads. As Matt said.

Comment by johnriley posted on Rant for the day! at 20/11/2007 - 14:34

johnriley
Thank you, Angelo. It's good to hear of good service!

Comment by johnriley posted on MZ-M problem at 07/01/2008 - 22:47

johnriley
Try the sister site to this one.

www.photodo.com

Comment by johnriley posted on Lens Database good idea? at 19/11/2007 - 20:06

johnriley
I was under the impression that limited batches were still being made. There does still seem to be a demand.

Comment by johnriley posted on Another lens question - 50MM portrait prime this time at 19/11/2007 - 20:26

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