If it's called a lenspen, it implies it's designed for cleaning lenses, so don't assume it's OK for sensors.

We know the actual sensor is covered by a filter, but the filter is fragile too. There are specialised products for sensor cleaning, so when necessary use those. When necessary.

So far from the *istDS to the K10D and now the K20D I have not so far found the need to use any sensor cleaner that makes contact.

When i think of all the dust that used to mar negatives and all the spotting big prints needed, I think we might be getting over anxious about our relatively dust free sensors. After all, it's incredibly easy to do a bit of spotting in Photoshop!

Welcome to the forum.

I would suggest you set the highest quality JPEG settings and then try everything on the camera. Shoot lots of images, enjoy the process and share a few with us here.

You've got a great kit that should keep you very busy for a while. Later on you might decide on more lenses for specific purposes (such as a Macro lens) but for now just have fun.

The sensor should be left well alone unless it's really necessary to clean it. In this case cleaning methods that don't make contact are the best way to start off.

The same applies to SLR mirrors and focusing screens - leave well alone as they are incredibly sensitive parts.

DIY jobs on modern electronic cameras are not for those of a nervous disposition. Don't do it!

You can use them if you activate the custom menu item "permit use of aperture ring" and then use stop down metering in manual or aperture priority.

If you do a search on this forum you will find lots of threads covering the details in great depth.

The lenses are definitely worth using, they will just be a little less convenient than A lenses and later.

It could be, it depends on what sort of subjects you shoot. Personally I think the 100mm Macro is the most useful.

I don't think it's a great way to sell postcards - the prints will fade and the cost in terms of ink and the toll on your printer will be too high.

Try inexpensive printing solutions such as Vistaprint and Able Labels and I think you'll end up with a much better product at a lower unit cost.

Well I don't know about generations, but proper pentaprism finders are very superior to EVFs. You can't judge manual focus on an EVF and the slow response time means that following action is almost impossible.

If you want to see a really good viewfinder have a look through a Voigtlander Bessamatic - it's useless for focusing but the aerial viewfinder image is just staggering!

I've never seen any lens project anything but a circle and I'm not sure how that would be possible. Just shine a light through the lens and project that onto a wall. I suspect the 35mm camera test isn't valid because of the rectangular film gate.

Quick Shift enables use of manual focusing without switching the camera to MF. The practical benefit works like this. A half press on the shutter release will autofocus and lock the focus point. Maintain the pressure whilst tweaking the point of focus with the manual focusing ring. Fully press the shutter release to fire the shutter.

This will work with all DA lenses apart from the 18-250mm. It is not possible with FA lenses, so don't try to force them.

Don't underestimate that Quick Shift facility - it is incredibly useful.