I have an EI-2000 (hybrid/bridge/DSLR) and have little knowledge on everything between it and the K-5. My choice would be either a K10D (I've heard good comments about these) or a K-7/K-5. The K-7 being the camera that introduced the chassis/spec forming the basis of the K-5(ii) & K-3(ii). The K-5 for keeping Pentax in the game during the Hoya/Ricoh transition.

For me the spec of a classic Pentax DSLR should include - Twin dials, toplate LCD, Hyper modes, SR, SDM/DC compatibility and weather sealing.

The problem with very wide rectilinear lenses in cramped spaces is that you can get significant perspective distortion (it depends on the subject). Objects further away from the camera appear much smaller - the best example I can think of is a snooker table on TV - it doesn't look rectangular. For subjects where everything is at relatively similar distances from the camera (most landscapes etc.) this isn't a problem. It can also be used to good effect separating a close-up subject from the background.

For cramped interior shots this exaggerated perspective can make rooms look bigger (useful for selling houses!) and may/may not be useful in your needs. I don't have the 12-24 (but have an FA20-35 used on film which gives a similar perspective and I've used an 18mm rectilinear on film). Instead I went for the DA10-17 Fisheye - in cramped spaces the FE distortion is easier on my eyes (and many report it can be de-fished fairly easily).

John.

It's not just about price, but how you get on with the gear. For me HyperManual, HyperProgram and TAV modes are must haves for aviation work (keeping you shutter speed 'just right' to blur props). The rugged, weather sealed bodies/lenses and 100% finders also help.

The K-3 was probably the best APS-C DSLR when launched, the K-3ii offers significant enhancements to that and with the FF coming by the end of the year, Pentax are definitely catching up. Many think Pentax are 'quirky' - but it's really because they just do things right.

Camera systems have to work for you, inspire confidence when you pick them up and put you in the right frame of mind to get great images.

John.

I stopped subscribing to Petax User+ because of the ads, contributing instead to sites that aren't swamped by them. Mine used to be slow but since Firefox is blocking my Adobe Flash (it's out of date), I don't seem to get the 'animated' ads anymore and it feels faster.

John.

If it's for an LX I'd go for an M - cheaper (A series attract digital buyers), better built (more metal) and no risk of the aperture accidentally moving into 'A' - it's also the original 'mainstream' standard lens for the LX (excepting the 'specials' with the 50/1.2). The M 50/1.7 is probably sharper though if f/1.4 isn't critical.

John.

Welcome back - ignoring the schoolboy error of not having the strap lugs on the left hand side to allow for the grip! Kudos for getting the strap lugs, I doubt they're cheap on their own these days!

It's a purely personal decision, I prefer the built in GPS (Astrotracer) in the K-3ii than a built-in flash (the one on the K-5 has helped on only a handful of occasions). Although if it wasn't Pentax, I wouldn't be looking at an Olympus E whatsit (they all seem to be 'OM-D's), but at a certain Japanese film manufacturers offer where you can either buy a body or a body & two lenses for the 'body only' price.

The EVF's I've seen are horrendous when panning - I'm simply not interested.

I daren't admit how much I spent on a used LX in the mid '90s, since having it repaired I haven't used any 35mm film camera (and I have a lot to choose from).

It doesn't matter that they may not feature Pentax (I've not seen one for years so wouldn't know), I gave up on most magazines years ago. Many of the publishing houses recycle articles across their various photo mags - sometimes contradicting each other. Others will borrow an article from a completely different publication and connect it loosely to a photo scenario to justify it (to paraphrase - "For your next photo outing you might want a caravan - we test six popular models...").

I subscribe to BJP (more about the work of photographers than gear) and Hungry Eye (still & video work across the spectrum) and pick up occasional 'non-photo' mags when they have interesting documentary work I like the look of.

Hi John, I can't find where in my K-5 manual it states spot metering doesn't work:

Pg 117 states the camera defaults to centre-weighted when multi-segment is selected with a pre-A lens, but Pg 118 makes no mention of this for spot-metering.

Pg 337 stating restrictions of various lens types mentions restrictions related to multi-segment metering but not spot.

I'm convinced from my experience that spot works fine with older lenses.

John.