If you'd consider a zoom there's the Sigma 10-20mm (£329 at SRS) or 8-16mm (£399 at SRS.) The 10-20's often come up second hand, recently around £230 through the forum classified ads here. 8-16's are scarcer as it is a fairly new lens but still good value even brand new. An excellent alternative if you want Pentax is the 12-24mm. But these are all zooms, so for a prime the Pentax 14mm f/2.8 DA ED (IF) is a little bit cheaper than the 15mm f4 and optically good but much larger and heavier.

John

Do you really need to do 25fps? 8mm home movies normally ran at 16fps (standard or 18fps (super 8 ). Many cartoons are double framed, that is two shots were taken of each animated cell. A slower frame rate might even make it easier to watch the sequence and save dramatically on shutter actuations.

John

If a full frame DSLR is introduced it would need the FA 50mm f1.4 or equivalent. Given that he said it will continue would seem to imply that full frame has not been ruled out. It seems that the 50mm f1.8 would be more akin to the 35mm f2.4, like a DA-L lens.

Mind, the FA 50mm's are fetching a good price for a fairly basic lens so while it is profitable why would Pentax drop it from the range? That would make no sense at all.

John

Heee Thought as much - and it isn't even April 1st. (Not the first time he's caught us out, is it :wink

Well after the hassle of trying to do the impossible and given there was a good full moon out tonight I took one or twenty myself with the Sigma 150-500 plus 2x Vivitar converter.




All the images I took tonight had that white spot to the left just below the centre. Can't say I've noticed that before - have I spotted something new?

John

I had a go with the file but didn't achieve any more than the OP did. You, however, have brought out quite a lot more detail from the file. You gave a brief synopsis of what you did but could you elaborate further and advise what software you used to achieve it. Thanks.

Cheers!

John

Don't forget you get a choice of factory defaults: Bright, Natural etc. If you use a long lens you may want to boost contrast and saturation, but its really best done in RAW where the RAW file is the same whatever the JPEG settings are. Don't forget you can experiment with the settings by developing a RAW file in the camera to decide what you prefer. In the end it is really down to personal preference.

John

If you shoot RAW images to be processed by Adobe Camera RAW then it doesn't really matter what camera settings are used as the unprocessed image is used for the Adobe conversion.

Regarding JPEG - different settings are needed for different subjects. Do you need to increase/decrease the contrast; similarly colour saturation; or get a black and white image? There isn't one setting fits all answer. What you are doing is using the camera to process the RAW images rather than your computer, so it really all depends on what you want the image to look like. The camera RAW software on your PC may take your camera defaults as its starting point but you can achieve the results of any in camera setting from this file.

John

No, they'd have to reload the software to the EPROM memory chip if the camera cannot do it itself anymore. Just like when a memory card gets corrupted and you reformat it and reinstall anything back onto it you want to keep.

John

If just the one of the three is flashing, the camera is pointing out the exposure setting is out of range to give an accurate exposure and something needs to be changed, as in the Tv example above.
When all three are flashing the camera doesn't have enough light to take a reading at all (like when you've left your lens cap on or you're down in the coal cellar!!)

It's normal, don't worry.

John

It's here:

[quote="K-5 Camera Manual - Page 108"]Exposure Warning
If the subject is too bright or too dark,
the aperture value will blink on the
status screen and LCD panel and in
the viewfinder. If the subject is too bright, choose a faster shutter
speed. If it is too dark, choose a slower shutter speed. When the
aperture value indication stops blinking, you can take a picture with
proper exposure.
Use a commercially available ND (Neutral Density) Filter if the subject
is too bright. Use a flash if it is too dark.[/quote]John