If I'm not mistaken a RAW file cannot be directly viewed at all. What one sees as a raw file is actually its embedded jpeg. Software exists to extract that. Images from the early (1990's) digital camera RAW files did not have this embedded jpeg so could only be viewed by converting them to a format that can be viewed. They were based on the TIFF file format which also became the basis for the Adobe DNG format in 2004. How one might view the PEF raw file data unconverted is beyond me. Don't think you could!

Cheers, had the K2 from new (and an electronically deceased ESII before it puchased very heavily used) but tended to use my ME more often. Also have an MX that's only had two rolls of film through it at the most (both the K2 and MX were purchased as discontinued models.)

You could still use the 20-40 on a K-1. As to how much extra frame width you may get in FF mode I don't know as I haven't got one to test. Perhaps someone else has and can advise?

The K2 Algi:-

The old 1.4X Tamron-F Pz-AF MC4 is full frame and still works a treat (back to the future!) That was THE converter to go for before the Pentax 1.4x came out. Can't try it with a 150-450 though as I do not have one but it's fine with the Sigma 150-500 (and no body rubbing issue to contend with.) It even focuses just fine in indoor light and has the Power Zoom/HSM contacts. It's like it was made for the K-1 ! I didn't bother with the Pentax 1.4X converter as I found the Tamron to be as good as any I've ever used. I'm surprised the Pentax 1.4X isn't full frame ready though.

What you're describing sounds like you have a power zoom, which I'm sure isn't what you mean. Can you be more specific as to which setting and dial you are referring to.
Have you tried setting the AF/M lever to M? As I said, the focus then cannot change as it's switched off completely. Also consider switching off autofocus linked to the shutter release button, then you can leave the AF/M lever on AF but it won't refocus the shot unless the AF button is pressed. Alternatively setup the AF button to not refocus while it's pressed. The way the K-5, K-3 and K-1 work are all much the same in that respect.

Yes, that's true. If need be the vignetting can be corrected to an extent in Photoshop or simiiar to provide a letterbox shot using most of the width (not full width however). The corners aren't there though to bring back!

I tried it with my Android. I did get it to work and could use it as a live view remote. But it wasn't without a lot of hassle where the wi-fi said it was connected but didn't accept the password it gave to use. If it was like that every time it would be a lot of hassle and effort for not very much reward! That was with the original firmware, perhaps its been tweaked in the update because of that.
It would be useful to have something similar that worked on the PC without spending a fortune possibly to find it still doesn't work as you want it to.

Not true! It'll find the correct file amongst others. Just make sure there are no other Pentax bin files on the card.

That's really odd because if the camera is set to manual focus the AF button shouldn't do anything.
By manual focus I mean switching the M/AF lever under the AF mode button to M. Often manual focus is the way to go with macro shots.

Even black and white prints from film almost always need some burning and dodging to bring detail from the shadows and hold back the highlights. Then one has a choice of paper grades - a contrasty negative probably needing a softer grade paper to get the best out of it.
But it doesn't stop there. One might deliberately under/over expose the negative and adjust developing times accordingly to compensate to get the desired negatives. Then one may use the sky from another image if the photo you're presently working on lacks a decent sky.
A straight out of the camera image is really just a snapshot, a proof print waiting for further work. Often the packet of prints back from the chemist D&P look pretty dreadful until one spends some work enhancing them. It's the difference between a snap shooter and an enthusiast photograper.